A day earlier, we had a wonderful start to our 7 Day Complete Iceland Tour, which consisted of Iceland’s iconic Golden Circle Tour. After a night at Adventure Hotel Geirland on the outskirts of Vatnajökull, we commenced our journey of icy proportions.
Vatnajökull Glacier, being the largest glacier in Iceland and 2nd largest in Europe, was visible even when we were like a 3hr ride away. We made stops that offered us varied views of the glacier tongues flowing out of the main ice cap. Of course, we also visited waterfalls that were essentially Iceland’s anchor sightseeing destinations.
After lunch, we embarked on the greatest highlight of the tour – ice caving – setting foot on precious real estate that’s fast disappearing due to climate change. We then rounded off our day at Diamond Beach to a wet and grey weather.
Trip Overview
On Day 2, we completed the following itinerary:
0730: Breakfast
0845 – 0900: Set off
0915 – 0925: Foss á Síðu
1000 – 1015: Skeiðará Bridge Monument
1020 – 1110: Svartifoss and Hundafoss
1120 – 1200: Lunch at Veitingasala Restaurant
1235: Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
1250 – 1610: Ice caving at Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier
1610 – 1710: Diamond Beach (walk from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon)
1730: Check in to accommodation of the night – Adventure Hotel Hof
We started our day with visits to 2 easy spots. Foss á Síðu is a waterfall with multiple small falls along a cliff face. Then we went to the Skeiðará Bridge Monument, which was a viewpoint on the plains that offered a panoramic view of 3 tongues of the Skaftafell Glacier. It was where the remains of the Skeiðará Bridge stood, after lava from a volcanic eruption swept away most of the bridge – a stark reminder of the power of nature.
Svartifoss and Hundafoss
Just a 5 minute’s drive away was the Svartifoss. To be honest, we didn’t get to see Svartifoss. It seemed too far and tall to be reached in the 50 minutes that we were given. Instead, we saw Hundafoss which was halfway to Svartifoss.
However, the journey still required a hike up a path that zigzagged up the hillside to at least 50m in height. Unlike the last few falls that we viewed, Hundafoss was nestled within the mountainside. For a moment, we felt like we were thrown back to the time when we were on Marienbrücke overlooking Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany.
While not as spectacular as Gullfoss, Hundafoss was unique in its own right for the strenuous hike up the hill.
Lunch at Veitingasala Restaurant
Our lunch was settled at a rest stop, with a restaurant called Veitingasala Restaurant. It had an attached souvenir shop for those who wanted to kill their time while waiting for their food.
We ordered Nuggets and Fries (ISK 2,900 / USD 21), out of the other options like burgers, hotdogs and tidbits. At this point of time, it was apparent that Iceland, especially the rural areas, wasn’t a foodie haven.
The nuggets were surprisingly good. They were marinated and came in larger servings. This became the most value for money food I had in Iceland. Similarly, the sandwich with ham, cheese and egg was simple but gratifying.
Ice Caving on Vatnajökull’s Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier
Post lunch, we spent an entire afternoon on the Jökulsárlón Glacier. We first reached the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where we met up with our guide for the ice caving tour and boarded his specially modified all terrain minivan. A short distance from the lagoon later, we went off the road towards the Jökulsárlón Glacier.
To traverse the rough terrain, the vehicle went at an excruciating slow pace. About 40 minutes later, we reached the edge of the glacier – Breiðamerkurjökull, an outlet glacier south of the larger glacier of Vatnajökull – where we would embark on our ice caving tours.
Setting Foot on Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier
Vatnajökull is a massive ice cap on the eastern end of Iceland. Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier is one of the glacier tongues that eventually flowed to the tourist attraction Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Our ice caving adventure took place on Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier, where we could explore the ice caves, which together with the glacier, would be emptying out into the lagoon.
Read more: https://eros.usgs.gov/earthshots/breidamerkurjokull-glacier-iceland
After donning our helmets and fitting the crampons on our shoes, we finally set foot onto a glacier! Our guide had specially instructed us to stay on the defined path, or where he had walked on, as there could be deep crevices hidden beneath the snowy surface.
For the next 2 hours, we visited 2 ice caves, the Irish Coffee and the Temple Prayer Room. These were named by the guides who found and developed the ice caves. Every year during winter, the guides would explore the glaciers to prepare the ice caves for the upcoming tour season. However, in recent years, due to climate change, the glacier had retreated at a faster pace and the ice caves from the previous year would always be gone come next season. Therefore, Irish Coffee and Temple Prayer Room were new caves that would most likely be gone the next year.
Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier – Exploring Irish Coffee Ice Cave
Irish Coffee as a “starter” cave, was compact and could be accessed easily. After hopping down a slope, we were in a tight space surrounded by ice. The sun that shone through the icy ceiling cast a dark blue glow in the cave. Unfortunately, as we were in late ice caving season, the caves were already dripping wet from the heat. Even as we gathered outside the cave listening to our guide explain the formation of ice caves, the ice wall was melting behind my back!
Ice caves formed through a combination of unique geological and glaciological processes. Our guide focused on explaining how ice caves formed through meltwater channels. Glaciers often contain channels of flowing meltwater beneath the surface. This meltwater can carve out passages within the glacier, especially if it follows existing weaknesses or fractures in the ice. As they flow over those fissures, they form eddies which would eventually erode the ice.
Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier – Exploring Temple Prayer Room Ice Cave
The next ice cave that we visited was larger. We had to climb down a flight of steep (and slippery) steps carved out from the ice by the guides. There was even an official “entrance” to the cave which formed the backdrop of a mysterious snow adventure. Again, while we were in the cave, we could observe the flowery patterns within the ice as our faces were slapped against the icy walls.
It was worth noting that glacier ice caves could be hazardous due to the constantly changing environment within glaciers, including the risk of collapse, shifting ice, and unpredictable conditions. Therefore, it was a real blessing that I could be on a guided tour exploring this unique and precious landscape, which was at high risk of disappearing due to the warming climate!
And not to mention, one of our tour mates decided to propose to his girlfriend on the glacier! How romantic! The other tour groups who saw the scene even sent their blessings from across the glacier. It was a unique experience indeed!
Enjoying Serendipity at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
We ended our 3 hour tour of the glacier back at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. From there, we were given an hour to explore the lagoon, as well as the Diamond Beach which was a 5 minutes’ walk away.
The lagoon itself had several viewpoints where we could enjoy the panoramic view of the lagoon. Huge chunks of ice had calved from the glacier edge and fallen into the water. It was surreal watching these ice giants float slowly and silently towards the sea. The scene before us was both an end and a start. And of course, it would gradually end with the icebergs merging with the open water.
Diamond Beach
Trekking along the coast of the lagoon, we reached Diamond Beach. It was aptly named after the huge chunks of ice that had been washed ashore. These crystal clear rocks laid in contrast on the black sand beach. On a clear day, they would glisten like diamonds under the sunlight.
Unfortunately for us, it was a cloudy and rainy day. In fact, the rain had intensified by the time we reached the beach. Coupled with the gusts of winds that swept from the Arctic Ocean, we were running back to the van after we managed to capture some customary been-there-done-that shots.
Adventure Hotel Hof
Our accommodation for the night was Adventure Hotel Hof, which was in the village of Hof. We began to wonder if the “Adventure Hotel” brand was part of Arctic Adventures and that we would be staying in other “Adventure Hotels” throughout the week.
Overview of Adventure Hotel Hof
Town: Hof
Room Number: 112
Room: Twin Single
Bathroom: Shower / Vanity Counter space very small / Toilet
Room Amenities: Toiletries – body gel only / Hair dryer / Power socket (2 by desk, none by bedside) / Heater (Controlled in room / Working good)
Safety: Key access
Neighbourhood: Rural, off the fringe of town Hof
Getting around: Can’t get around without car.
Breakfast: Standard European spread: ham, cheese, bread, muffins, hardboiled eggs and tea and coffee. Self service return.
Room of Adventure Hotel Hof – Neat and Scandi
This time around, we were placed in a room with windows that opened out to the back alley of the restaurant kitchen. I was in a dilemma, as I wanted to ventilate the room, but was wary of the bugs common around kitchens getting in. In the end, it was the cooking fumes that was the more unbearable factor. Whiffs of fumes crept in despite the closed windows.
The room was compact, but there was still room to open out one of our suitcases. The rather modern fittings and Scandinavian earth tones were pleasing to the eyes. And of course, there was no view to speak of.
Our beds were slightly narrower than a single bed, and due to the space constraints, they were pressed against the walls. That being said, the beds were springy. We noticed that the sheets were rough. How we missed our 1,000 thread count beds! #firstworldproblem It grew cold at night and the blanket unfortunately proved insufficient.
There were also quite a number of horizontal surfaces, in the forms of shelves and cupboards, where we could place our personal belongings. In fact, thanks to the power socket near the desk, we could cook our dinner for the night and avoid the horrendously expensive hotel dinner. There was also a single rack by the bedside.
In place of a wardrobe were wall hangers, which was woefully inadequate for holding the winter wear of 2 persons!
Bathroom – Not Perfect, but Functional
Unlike the previous Adventure Hotel Geirland, there was a shower-bathtub combo. The bathtub had a hinged partition, which was more useful than shower curtains. However, there was no shelving for personal toiletries within the shower area.
The sink area was also lacking space, as there was no proper vanity counter. Other than the 2 cups holding our toothbrushes, we had to place the rest of the toiletries on the ledge behind the WC. There was a heated towel rack, though. Hence it was great for doing laundry and drying them. I had also found the lighting within the toilet to be rather good.
Breakfast – Simple European Fare
Breakfast was a standard European buffet spread. In the space of about 3m by 3m, they had food stations for ham, cheese, bread, muffins, hard boiled eggs and tea and coffee. I wouldn’t say the food wowed me, but it was gratifying enough to kickstart another day of touring.
Generally, I was quite satisfied with this hotel, except for the room’s location.
Parting Words
As we departed from the crowded outback of Reykjavik, we entered the icy world of Iceland. What was most memorable? Our half day tour out on the glacier definitely took the cake. We weaved in and out of the ice caves beneath the giant ice blanket, listening to how they were formed and their slow and sure death in the face of climate change. The magical natural feature was a sight to behold and boy was I grateful to be able to set feet on one!
Being there on the ice sheet changed my prior stereotype of glaciers. I had known that the massive, moving ice stirred up the rocks and earth on its way to the sea. However, that didn’t change my pre-notion of a glacier that is this white vast expanse that stretched all the way to the horizon. If no one said it, the actual glacier looked like any snow covered area – sans building and vegetation. Close up, the dirt that got caught in this millennia-long transition couldn’t be more obvious. What looked like mountainside smeared with ice was actually a mixture of ice and dirt. In fact, it was difficult to find spots in the glacier that was pure ice. I eventually learned that the snow on the glacier was whiter than the ice.
Of course, there were other realisation that settled within me after setting foot on the glacier.
Being right there on the snowy field watching the ice walls melt, and standing by the glacier lagoon watching the giant icebergs drifting towards their eventual demise was a stark reminder of the reality that we are in. In no more than a few decades, these expansive ice covers would cease to exist. What can we actually do to curb, or even reverse the doom?
Alone, we are helpless. But together, we can do much. Till then, stay wanderlust!
This post is part of a series where I document my trip to Iceland chasing auroras. I had taken an 18-hour flight on Singapore Airlines’ Business Class to reach Iceland via Copenhagen. Then I spent a day at Reykjavik to recover from the long and tedious journey, while staying at Hilton Reykjavik Nordica.
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 7 Pro, and edited with Google Photos and Snapseed