When it comes to sightseeing spots, Iceland is tremendously contradictory. Many tourists ended up with the Golden Circle tour that took them around the outskirts of Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital. However, most of the breathtaking scenes we find online are nowhere near Reykjavik.
We were on day 3 of the week-long Complete Iceland Tour in late winter. By this time, we had left the touristy parts of Iceland and were on our way up Iceland hunting rugged natural sights. Just the day prior, we had scaled the Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier on Iceland’s biggest ice cap – Vatnajökull – to explore ice caves.
Now, the tour took on a slower pace which allowed us to appreciate the natural sights Iceland had to offer. We started with photo stops along the northeastern coast of Iceland to take in the beautiful coastal formations nestled on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.
We then headed inland to the Vok Baths to soak in the rough beauty of the snow capped mountains. To round off a leisurely day, we went deep into the valley where we spent the night at Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið.
Trip Overview
On Day 3, we completed the following itinerary:
0730: Breakfast
0830: Set off
0935 – 1000: Stopped by Eskey for photos
1015 – 1030: Pitstop
1050 – 1110: Stokksnes
1150 – 1200: Hvalnes Lighthouse
1205: Photo spot
1215: Stapinn (Stapavík) photo spot. Lone rock pillar on the beach.
13:10: Djúpivogur (Eggin of Gleðivík by Sigurður Guðmundsson) by Beruförður Fjord
1400 – 1505: Lunch at Kaupfjelagið Art and Craft Cafe
1630 – 1815: Vok Baths (by Lake Urriðavatn)
19:00: Check in to accommodation of the night – Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið
1930: Dinner in hotel
Eskey – View of a Thousand Landscapes
Moving on to the 3rd day of our complete Iceland tour, we slowed down our pace. We left the hustle and bustle of southern Iceland, riding into the untouched landscape of the island’s northern territory. The first stop was Eskey on Highway 1, which was a hill halfway between the mountains and the sea. It offered us a 360 view of the rustic Icelandic landscape.
On one hand, we had the distant mountains with the glacier tongues creeping out between the peaks. On the other, the wide plains that were thawing from the frosty winter. In between, the wind swept across an expansive fetch that grew into strong winds threatening to topple us over the edge.
Hofn and Stokksness – Iceland’s Viking Origins
We dropped by Hofn, a small seaside town where our guide Joey grew up in. He then brought us to Stokksness across the fjord. Stokksness was the site of an ancient viking town right by the sea. We stopped by the restaurant which was at the foot of a steep mountain.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter without paying service fees to the restaurant owner (though our guide told us that was illegal, as all natural sites in Iceland were to be opened to the public free of charge). Guess even a small country like Iceland has its issues of defiant citizens… 😂
And there we stood, on a small hill into the horizon where the ruins was supposed to stand. It was so low in elevation, I wouldn’t be surprised if it got covered by the tides at various times of the day. The fog began to roll in from the sea, and we resumed our northbound road trip.
Riding Up Eastern Iceland
Up next, our journey took us up eastern Iceland via Highway 1. The highway was right by the sea, with many parts teetering over the cliff, which made for a harrowing but exciting experience. We made several photo stops along the way. The first was Hvalnes Lighthouse that overlooked the torrentuous Atlantic Ocean. We also dropped by Stappin, a lone pillar of rock on the beach accompanied by the rolling arctic waves.
Think Australia’s 12 apostles, but only 1.
Were the photo stops worth it? I believe so. In the van, we wouldn’t be able to feel the force of nature blowing against our faces. We could smell the sea and perhaps a part of the Arctic. The crashing of the waves could not be heard in the van. And it would perhaps be the only time I, a resident of a tropical city, would be soaking in the Arctic atmosphere.
We then dropped by the small coastal town of Djúpivogur by Beruförður Fjord. It sported the Eggin of Gleðivík by Sigurður Guðmundsson – 34 rock sculpture of eggs of birds native to Iceland.
Lunch at Kaupfjelagið Art and Craft Cafe in Breiðdalsvík
About an hour from Djúpivogur, we arrived at the town of Breiðdalsvík. We had lunch at the Kaupfjelagið Art and Craft Cafe. As the name suggested, it was a combination of a cafe, a grocery store, which also sold some local craft.
At such a far flung place in Iceland, lunch was also a simple affair. We ordered Chicken Wings, Small Fries and Bacon Burger. We didn’t expect the chicken wings to come with fries – and they did. There were 3 wings (6 parts), which was rather well done and value for money at ISK 2100 (USD 15).
The burger was also filling, but had less protein despite being more expensive (ISK 2400 / USD 17) than the wings. The shoestring fries were typically Icelandic – lightly salted with a dash of paprika. We also added ketchup (for 200 ISK), which I suppose was home made. Its texture is more watery and tasted less salty than the regular ones.
Feeling ungratified, we topped up the meal with a Blueberry Cheesecake (ISK 800 / USD 6). It was a great comfort food, though the cheese tasted more like cream instead.
Vok Baths (by Lake Urriðavatn)
Following lunch, we went for our highlight tour of the day – Vok Baths. Like its famous counterpart Blue Lagoon in the south, Vok Baths are geothermal pools by Lake Urriðavatn. Initially, I thought “Vok” was a short form for “volcanoes”. However, after a quick research online, it was actually the Icelandic name given by the locals over centuries, referring to ice free patches of Lake Urriðavatn that didn’t freeze during winter due to the geothermal water seeping from the lake’s bottom.
Vok Baths was opened in 2019 and sported very modern and chic interior design. Visitors were given a digital bracelet that we could use to enter the baths and make purchases in the premises.
Like a Japanese onsen, there was a shoe rack right after the entrance, so that we could enter the shower area without wetting our shoes. The lockers were right after the entrance. We could choose any locker and all we needed to do was to scan our bracelets after closing the locker to activate the lock. The shower area was also very spacious, and contained individual changing rooms, shower stalls, soap and hair dryer.
The Hot Pools by Lake Urriðavatn
There were 2 ways to enter the pools from the shower. The first opened out to the deck like a normal swimming pool. However, we would have been exposed to the cold wintry air. Thankfully, there was another entrance. The pool extended indoors; we could walk down the ramp into the hot water, before exiting to the open. Yep, no cold!
There was a pool bar, which was also where most folks hung out. However, a short walk (and 30 seconds of cold wind) away were 2 infinity pools that opened out to the lake. No matter where we were in the pools, we could look out over the serene, partially frozen lake to the snow capped mountains in the background.
Since the pools opened directly to the lake, we could also do a cold dipping. There were ladders fixed on the outside of the pool that allowed us to dip slowly into the freezing lake. Or one could also do what some Americans did – jump straight into the water. I did the former, because… YOLO. It was really awkward feeling pins and needles all over my body as I returned to the hot pool!
Enjoying the Pools
To be honest, the pools weren’t as hot as Japanese onsens. That being said, it was great to be dipping in the hot pool with such an amazing mountainscape around me. I also tried the local Icelandic drink Malt, which tasted exactly like beer, sans alcohol. But I guess the placebo effect kicked in. I actually felt my cheeks blush after drinking Malt!
After washing up, we hung out at the lobby area to wait for the rest of the tour group to be done. We had to make payment – via a self service kiosk or with the reception, before we could exit the locker room (activated by dropping the digital bracelet into the turnstile).
There was a tea bar (Infusion Bar) in the lobby, where we could try various hot teas – free of charge. The hot water provided at the bar was from Lae Urriðavatn, which was the only geothermal water in Iceland certified as drinkable. After a dip in the hot pool, it was great to be drinking Barley Tea to soothe the insides.
There was also a bistro in the lobby, so those who were not interested in the pool dipping could also hang out and enjoy the scenery while waiting for the others.
Overall, the Vok Baths was quite an experience. Considering how the Blue Lagoon just outside of Reykjavik had been disrupted by the recent bouts of volcanic eruptions, Vok Baths made a great alternative. The distance from Reykjavik might be daunting. But with the awesome scenery on the way up and Vok Baths’ superb environment, the hassle was more than worth it.
Entry to Vok Baths is ISK 6,990 (USD 50) per pax.
Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið
Our accommodation for the night was at Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið. Nestled within an isolated valley, we were literally spending the night in the wild.
The lodge was refurbished from an existing farm. Its buildings were spread out the mountainside and overlooked the river valley below. This out of the world lodging nonetheless offered a homely experience despite its isolation.
Overview of Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið
Town: Unknown
Room Number: 107
Room: Twin Single
Bathroom: Shower / Vanity Counter space: nil / Toilet
Room Amenities: Toiletries (shampoo, bath gel) / Hair dryer / Power socket (enough) / Power socket (by bedside) / Heater (Central)
Safety: Single key; back door couldn’t be locked.
Staff: Friendly / Prepared dinner and breakfast by themselves
Neighbourhood: In the wild
Getting around: No way to get around without own transport.
It took us another 15 to 20 minutes through the valley before we reached the hotel. Upon arriving, we were greeted by the staff (who I believe is also the owner of the lodging), who briefed us that the hotel was newly renovated, contained a hot bath and sauna, and that dinner would be ready in half an hour’s time. After collecting our room keys and our luggage, we went straight for our rooms.
A long corridor cut through the length of the building, with our rooms lined up by the sides. Right by the entrance was a common room decorated with cosy furniture. There was also a station where we could collect kettles and cups for use at night.
Room with a Country Touch
Our room was right at the end of the corridor and faced the mountainside. Compared to the 2 hotels before us, this room was more spacious. The wooden furniture and warm lighting exuded homely vibes. On top of that, traditional handicrafts placed around the room also added a cosy touch.
The room was heated – and no one in our tour group could figure out how to adjust it. As a result, it got pretty stuffy at night. The window’s lock had a unique design, which required quite a bit of tinkling before I figured out how to keep it ajar to ventilate the room. Unfortunately for the other tour mates, they had to endure the stuffiness throughout the night.
Equally mind boggling was the room’s back door. Despite figuring out the locking mechanism, it just couldn’t be locked. Not that there would be anyone robbing us at night in the middle of nowhere… Our room was also one of the few that had a back door. However, it was getting dark and there was no proper path leading from the door, so we didn’t use it at all. Neither did we explore the mountainside despite the easy access.
Bedding – Functional Resting Spots
Interestingly, there was only a clothes rack with 3 hangers in place of a wardrobe. However, the bedside table was big and provided much needed space for our stuff.
Like the previous hotels, the sheets were pretty rough. However, the beds were comfortable and clean enough for a good night’s sleep. There were power sockets right above the bed. An awkward position. That meant I could only place my phone on the bed, instead of the shared bedside table.
On hindsight, the bedding and room decor reminded me of the lodgings I had stayed while hiking in Nepal. Of course, Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið’s offering was many notches better than the dilapidated lodgings on the slopes of the Himalayas. At least the bath water in Iceland was hot.
Bathroom – Simple and Gritty
The bathroom was one of the biggest we had in Iceland. Other than that, there was no separation of the shower from the toilet; there was a suspended wooden partition between them – rendering it pretty useless as the entire toilet floor still became wet after a shower. I believe it was because of this that everyone before us wore shoes into the bathroom, because the floor felt gritty and sandy.
There was no vanity counter; only a small sink with enough space for 1 hand soap and 2 cups. Thankfully, we could place our toiletries on the window ledge behind the toilet. The spacious bathroom also made the mirror looked ridiculously small.
Not all was bad, though. Despite the wilderness, the water pressure was good and hot water was consistent. The shower gel and shampoo was in a large rectangular dispenser, which made up for the lack of toiletries shelving in the shower. Also, the bathroom was well insulated (raising this as I recall some Japanese hotel bathrooms that let in cold air).
Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið in Nature
Right before dinner, we took the chance to explore the hotel grounds. Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið was set in the valley far from the highway. On good days, there should be good views of the surrounding mountains. However, it was very cloudy and rainy during our stay.
We were located halfway up the mountainside. Beneath our rooms was the dining place. Not far from it was the hot pool and sauna. However, given the cold and wet weather, we decided it wouldn’t be worth the hassle to have a soak after dinner.
We were right. The sun had set after our meal, and the area was pitch dark. Even with our handphone lights on, it was hard to find the way back up to our rooms!
Even that, we snuck enough time to admire the natural sights of the valley amidst the drizzle. Amazingly, the wind was gentle. We could barely make out the mountain tops that were shrouded by the billowing clouds. The melting snow carving streaks down the sides of the mountain made it look like the clouds were streaming down from the heavens to fill the river in the valley below.
Dinner with Local Farm Delights
Dinner was provided by the lodging. I mean, we couldn’t be out hunting for our food in this isolated location, could we? The dinner place was in a separate building down the mountain. While that offered us the chance to take in the beautiful valley scenery, it also exposed us to the rain while making our way there.
The dinner place was further split into 2 rooms. Like the bedrooms, the dining rooms were intricately decorated with heavy wooden furniture, dim warm lighting and various trinkets on the walls and ledges. The cosy atmosphere was filled to the brim with the warmth of a local’s house, making it feel less like a lodging.
Soon after everybody settled down, the entree was served – bread and baked potatoes with carrots and beans. The baked potatoes were a simple dish that allowed us to savour the best of nature. Amidst our chatter, the main course of the day – lamb chops – was served on a sharing platter along with various sauces like cranberry sauce. The dish earned the praises of everyone for its non-gamey tender texture.
I wasn’t a lamb lover, so I had my own serving of Fish Gratin. Generous chunks of fish was covered with potatoes and cheese, smothered in creamy white sauce. At ISK 5,000 (USD 36) per head, I must say it was the most filling meal I had in Iceland.
I also took the chance to try the local beer Skessa. The wasabi infused beverage was nothing I had expected. It tasted more like port, yet it was also strong in alcohol.
Homely Breakfast in Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið
Breakfast was a standard European spread: ham, cheese, bread, muffins, hard boiled eggs, rubarb, cakes. What was unique was that the meal was prepared by the owner herself. It was real amazing that she and her partner managed to prepare such a spread on their own! However, we were mostly still gratified from the scrumptious meal from the night before. As such, most of us were contented with the modest serving for the day’s start.
Parting Words
The 3rd day of our Iceland Diamond Ring Tour was slow paced. Notwithstanding the fact that we had left the bustling capital Reykjavik behind, we were also in transit between 2 major tourist hubs of Iceland.
After spending a better part of the day on the bus and only dropping off for photo spots by the cliff side of Highway 1, we got to enjoy the Vok Baths with its soothing hot pools embraced by Lake Urriðavatn and the volcanic mountains of central Iceland.
Just as we thought the soak at geothermal pools was a great way to end the day, our accommodation of the night – Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið – served up a ravenous dinner amid a homely and cosy environment.
Our lodging was right smack in the middle of a valley in the middle of nowhere. We were in a superb position to see the northern lights. Therefore, it was a shame that the rainy weather just stuck around and obscured the otherwise open skies.
Although I didn’t feel positive about Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið, on hindsight, it became a very good memory hook on a trip that saw us breeze through a series of similar landscapes and sights. It helped me remember clearly that the Vok Baths was right before it. I could also remember that in the following morning, we went to the other side of the mountain to view a very windy canyon.
Sometimes, it was a blemish in an otherwise perfect canvas that gives an artwork its value.
And here concludes another day of exploring Iceland’s wilderness and another night of failed attempts to catch the aurora. But we remain hopeful. Till then, stay wanderlust!
This post is part of a series where I document my trip to Iceland chasing auroras. I had taken an 18-hour flight on Singapore Airlines’ Business Class to reach Iceland via Copenhagen. Then I spent a day at Reykjavik to recover from the long and tedious journey, while staying at Hilton Reykjavik Nordica.
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 7 Pro, and edited with Google Photos and Snapseed