In late winter of 2024, I embarked on a 7-day tour around Iceland. The all-inclusive tour package took us out of the usual tourist spots around Reykjavik, to enjoy the rugged beauty of the land of ice and fire.
We had already covered the Golden Circle tour, before going ice caving on a glacier. Then, we went to soak in geothermal pools deep in Iceland. We also visited the bare lands of geothermal vents and lava pillars. Now, we’re on our 5th day of our tour.
Despite growing up in a city by the sea, most of my interaction with sea creatures was on the dining table. Or across a thick piece of glass. Therefore, I was pretty much looking forward to the highlight of the day – whale watching.
Half the day was over by the time we returned to land, and that was when we began our journey back down south.
Trip Overview
On Day 5, we completed the following itinerary:
0730: Breakfast
0810: Set off
0920 – 1145: Whale watching by ArcticSea Tours
1220 – 1310: Lunch at Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra
1330: photo stop Migandifoss
1355 – 1440: Siglufjörður
1600 – 1635: Sauðárkrókur (pit stop at gas station)
1745 – 1755: Kolugljúfur Canyon
1820: Check in to accommodation for the night – Hótel Laugarbakki
Preparation for Whale Watching with Arctic Sea Tours at Dalvik
We arrived at Dalvik, some 1 hour from Akureyri, for our whale watching our with Arctic Sea Tours. Both Dalvik and Akureyri are situated along the fjord Eyjafjörður fjord, which is a favourite hangout spot for the whales during winter. After changing into our brightly coloured overalls – which could keep us warm and dry – and a briefing, we set off to the harbour nearby to board the ship, the Mani.
Usually, the tour would see us venture out into the open sea to hunt for the whales. However, a pair of whales had entered and stayed at the fjord since last week. As such, the boat would be taking us deeper into the fjord to look for them. We were also lucky, as it was also a shoulder season for whale watching. Hence, there wouldn’t be a crowd that would scare the whales away.
Whales usually hunt and linger in the deep waters. Occasionally, they would re-surface for air. They typically take about 10 breaths (i.e. surfacing to blow water out of their spouts) before diving back into the depths. After their final breath, they would flip their tail fins out of the water – which would be the sign for us to say “goodbye” to the whales.
Whale-y Unique Encounter
About an hour and a half later, we finally encountered both whales! They were also curious about us and constantly circled us for the next 45 minutes. Eventually, both of them caught their last breath and returned to the depths of the water to continue hunting for food.
To be honest, it was very tempting to train my camera on the surface of the water to catch the whales when they surface. However, the time and spot they resurface was unpredictable. After taking their breath, they would resurface at another spot. Sometimes, the ship even had to turn around after realising that the whales had left our vicinity. I wasn’t even sure which of the 2 whales we saw. A lot of times, the whale would have disappeared by the time the camera was focused on it.
Eventually, I decided to put my phone down and enjoy the moment. I was lucky, as it was also the time when the whale ventured closest to the side of the boat! I could even see the texture of its skin vividly before it disappeared under the waves!
While some of our tour mates caught good photos (with their very professional cameras), I thought the experience was really best enjoyed with our eyes.
Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra
We disembarked at Hjalteyri and took a bus back to Dalvik to return our gear and had lunch. Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra, which was famous for its fish soup, was just a stone’s throw away from Arctic Sea Tours’s office.
The 2 storey restaurant was decked out in earthy tones and oozing with homely feels. We settled down at the upper floor as the entrance level was packed. It offered us a view over the street of Dalvik, while we enjoyed our food in the warm sunshine.
Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra only offered a set lunch, which was fish soup with free flow of bread, salad, and coffee and tea. Blame it on my stuck Asian mindset. I was expecting “clear” soup, so I was slightly shocked when it turned out to be fish stew. That being said, the soup was flavourful. It tasted like minestrone, but peppery. It also came with a generous serving of fish and fresh vegetables. The bread went very well with the soup. Together, they made a very satisfying meal. for ISK 6,300 (USD 45).
Siglufjörður
Following lunch, we rode further up north of the peninsula to Siglufjörður, but not before we made a photo stop at Migandifoss. The waterfall right before the mountain tunnel hadn’t formed even though it was late winter. But oh well… We had a great view of the Arctic Sea nonetheless.
Siglufjörður is a small fishing town by the coast of a small fjord of the same name. It was the northernmost town (and spot) we had set foot on in Iceland. And for a place this far north, it was still covered in a thick blanket of snow in late March.
We roamed around a bit, but the snow was simply too much. We had wanted to go to see the Lutheran church, which was the most striking building around, but the stairs leading to it were covered in thick snow and ice that made it unclimbable. There were also coffeeshops, refurbished from warehouses that stood by the wharf, which were unfortunately all closed.
Road Trip Down Northwestern Iceland
From Siglufjörður we made the long and sleepy ride down the northwestern barren land of Iceland. Along the way, we made several photo stops and pit stops to stretch our legs.
At Bílastæði, we took in the view of a lake formed by a land bridge that stretched across the mouth of a fjord. I’m not sure if that land bridge was formed naturally. However, it did make for rather breathtaking scenery.
After almost 3 hours of back breaking bus ride, our guide asked if we were interested in detouring to a canyon for some sightseeing. Hungry for something different to break the monotony, we agreed.
Kolugljúfur Canyon
After about 15 minutes of car ride from the highway, which was a throwback to our ride to Wilderness Center Óbyggðasetrið on our third night, we stopped beside a bridge that was literally in the middle of nowhere. The earthy landscape was dotted with snow patches, and looked like winter had ended.
Unfortunately, we were wrong.
Not only was the place still freezing cold, the wind was gale level strong. The featureless landscape did nothing to stop the wind. The waterfall could only be seen from the bridge. However, the wind was even crazier on the bridge.
Like in Stuðlagil Canyon, the wind was funnelled by the canyon into strong gusts. At times, the winds from above ground and below the canyon converged to create a windstorm of nightmare.
Just how strong was it? A heavy set guy like me could feel that my feet were off the ground at times! Waterfall? What waterfall?
Back in the van, I then realised how cold it was and my fingers were already hurting. It was then I appreciated the warmth and security in the van. The peace within was really deceiving of the cacophony out there!
Hótel Laugarbakki
Our accommodation for the night was located in the town of Laugarbakki. Or perhaps, a village? There weren’t many buildings as we passed by through the town. Hótel Laugarbakki itself was located away from the town. In fact, it sat in the middle of a plain, with the mountains far into the background. Like Kolugljúfur Canyon, the wind swept across the featureless plains onto the hotel and our room’s windows all night. This was a setting right out of my childhood adventuring fantasy.
Overview of Hótel Laugarbakki
Town: Laugarbakki
Room Number: 115
Room: Twin Single
Bathroom: Shower / Vanity Counter space – small / Toilet
Room Amenities: Toiletries – shampoo, conditioner, body gel in disposable bottles / Hair dryer / Power socket (plenty) / Power socket (2 by bedside) / Heater (Room / Working good)
Safety: Key
Staff: Friendly
Neighbourhood: Rural
Getting around: not possible to leave without own transport
For a hotel in the middle of nowhere, Hótel Laugarbakki was huge. Its unilevel buildings were split into 3 wings. Our room was at the corner of the west wing.
Room – Down to Earth Comfortable
While the room wasn’t as big as that of Berjaya Akureyri Hotel, it was as modern. There was a huge window that looked out to the open plains. That meant we could also enjoy the scenic view of the distant mountains against the sky.
But of course, with that open view came the howling wind. The flag pole in front of our room was clanging all night from the wind. It made me wonder throughout the night if the pole would eventually be uprooted and flung into our room?
We had to open the window ajar as the in room heater was strong, but the wind was equally crazy. The window slit became a whistle for the wind that blew into the room. Thankfully, the window was strong and didn’t flutter nor slam shut in the middle of the night.
There was a long shelving doubling up as a desk. The open wardrobe also had enough clothes hangers; there was also an attached luggage rack that housed an additional stool. Overall, there was sufficient horizontal space for our personal belongings.
The beds were also comfortable enough to catch some rest. In fact, there were also bedside lamps and power sockets beside each bed, which was a first for the lodgings we had stayed so far.
On the other hand, there was only one ceiling lamp in the entire bedroom, so come night time, the room was dimly lit. But I guess it was to reduce the light pollution. After all, the location in the wide open plains was really superb for aurora watching.
Bathroom – Modern and Well Designed
The bathroom was just as well designed. With a vanity counter, there was sufficient space for personal toiletries.
However, the shower pressure was very weak and temperature regulation was non-existent. But I guess there’s really nothing perfect when it comes to a hotel in the countryside. I noticed the sloping in the shower area was on the steep side, which might be of concern for the elderly.
Hotel Amenities – Hot Pools
My room looked out to the open air (man made) hot pools. However, given the gale out there, no one was interested to use it. There was also a ball court beside the hotel entrance. Of course, nobody was keen to use it in the cold. It was also designed for families. However, the guests that night were just us and the other tour group by Arctic Adventures that was on the identical tour as mine. Given the demographic of both tours, all of us would rather spend our nights recuperating from the day’s activities lol
Breakfast and F&B
Breakfast at Hótel Laugarbakki was standard European breakfast fare. For a small establishment, they had a very spacious dining space with booths and cafe seating. The wide windows offered an expansive view of the plains beyond. Enjoying breakfast with a view with the rare morning sunshine was one of the special moments in Iceland.
One thing unique about them was that they had a waffle making machine. While it was supposed to be self service, the staff had to step in and prepare the waffles as most folks had no idea how to use it.
Although Hótel Laugarbakki was a local business in a far flung corner of Iceland, they really made up for it with little touches.
The dining area was literally an open space right behind the reception. They had a hot beverage corner that was available 24/7. After being out in the freezing wind at Kolugljúfur Canyon, what I needed was a cup of hot chocolate! We helped ourselves to the hot chocolate, which went well with our own prepared dinner. After all, the options they had were totally out of budget.
Parting Words
The 5th day of the Complete Tour Around Iceland seemed like a way to wind down a jam packed journey. We had started off our day with whale watching at Dalvik. While the appearances made by the pair of whales in the Eyjafjörður Fjord was the highlight, the tour also included a leisure boat ride down the scenic fjord, light refreshment and an opportunity to try the famous local fish soup of Dalvik.
The remainder of the day was spent making our way down from the north, interspersed with photo spots and pit stops. Of course, our final stop at Kolugljúfur Canyon was very memorable. The power of the wind was the strongest I’ve ever experienced – not just in Iceland. Our accommodation for the night at Hótel Laugarbakki further proved that west Iceland is a windy place.
Granted, northern Iceland lacked the sights that dotted the eastern side of the island. I also started to understand why “flying into Akureyri to explore the northern island” was such a viable option for sightseers. One could be spared from the long ride back south with a short flight. Anyone who wants to venture out of Reykjavik, but is short of time to do a Diamond Ring tour can consider this option.
As for the main objective of this tour… Nope, we still failed to see the aurora that night. Despite its superb location, and experiencing clear skies throughout the day, the clouds gathered at night and obscured the chance to catch the northern lights. Another night and another opportunity missed. I began to wonder if I could really catch the northern lights in Iceland? It was unknown at that point of time. Till then, stay wanderlust!
This post is part of a series where I document my trip to Iceland chasing auroras. I had taken an 18-hour flight on Singapore Airlines’ Business Class to reach Iceland via Copenhagen. Then I spent a day at Reykjavik to recover from the long and tedious journey, while staying at Hilton Reykjavik Nordica.
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 7 Pro, and edited with Google Photos and Snapseed
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