Last Autumn, I flew to Japan to explore the central alps. I had entered and departed from Tokyo. In between, I relied on the mature train network to bring me to Nagano – where I based my vacation from – and to the cities around Nagano. The train rides included the high speed train Shinkansen as well as local trains. Here is an overview of the choo-choos that I took in the entire trip.
Train Journeys Overview
Haneda Airport Terminal 2 to Tokyo Station
Tokyo Monorail
Depart Time: 2011hrs
Arrival Time: 2030hrs
Duration: 19m
Distance: 3 stops
JR Keihintohoku Line – Negishi Line from Hamamatucho
Depart Time:2036hrs
Arrival Time: 2043hrs
Duration: 7m
Distance: 3 stops
Cost: Covered by JR Pass
Tokyo Station to Nagano via Hokuriku Shinkansen
Train Number: Kagayaki 519
Depart Time: 2104hrs
Arrival Time: 2223hrs
Duration: 1h 19m
Distance: 3 stops (Ueno, Omiya)
Car 3, 12E
Cost: JPY 8340 / USD 55 (Covered by JR Pass)
Yudanaka Station – Shinshu-Nakano Station – Nagano Station
Nagano-Dentetsu Line, transfer at Shinshu-Nakano Station (for Local trains)
Depart Time: 1559hrs
Arrival Time: 1700hrs
Duration: 1h 01m
Cost: JPY 1190 / USD 8
Nagano to Matsumoto vv via JR Shinonoi
Train Number: Shinano
Duration: 0h 51m
Distance: 63.2km
Cost: (Covered by JR Pass)
JPY 1,200 (USD 8) Non-Reserved Seat
JPY 1,930 (USD 13) Reserved Seat
JPY 2,700 (USD 18) Green Car
No wifi onboard
Nagano to Tokyo Station via Hokuriku Shinkansen
Train Number: Kagayaki 508
Depart Time: 1112hrs
Arrival Time: 1236hrs
Duration: 1h24m
Distance: 3 stops (Omiya, Ueno)
Car 9, 3C
Cost: JPY 4270/ USD 29
Note: Super busy timing with no space for suitcase. Better to find an earlier or later timing.
Nippori to Narita Airport Terminal 1 via Skyliner
Train Number: Skyliner No 65
Depart Time: 1625hrs
Arrival Time: 1703hrs
Duration: 38m
Distance: Direct to Narita Airport
Car 1, 10A
Cost: JPY 2580 / USD 7
Note: Train from Ginza to Nippori takes 26m for JPY 170 / USD 1
Super busy timing with no space for suitcase. Better to find an earlier or later timing.
Commencing the entire train journey – Exchanging for JR Pass
I had purchased my 5-day JR East Pass on Klook for USD 189.56, right before Japan increased the price. The pass would cover my rides to and around Nagano, but not the local trains to the Snow Monkey Park. As my trip lasted 6 days, my ride from downtown Tokyo to Narita Airport was also out of coverage.
The next step was the exchange for the actual tickets after touching down in Japan. Luckily, my flight arrived at Haneda Airport Terminal 2, which was also where the JR Pass exchange counter was located. The JTB Tourist Information Center was right by the arrival exit (after the customs). Depending on whether you have a narrow field of vision like me, it was really hard to miss 😅
Usually, we get to also reserve the seats on the Shinkansen while exchanging the JR Pass. However, I planned to have dinner after touch down. There was also a monorail ride before the ride, which made my starting time unpredictable.
Therefore, I reserved my ticket at Tokyo station instead. And thank goodness I did! Tokyo station was a monolith of a building, and navigating the station with a suitcase in tow was a nightmare. If I had to catch a train, I would have died on the spot!
Due to the myriad of service providers for Japan’s train network, it was also challenging to find the right office or machine to make the seat reservation. It didn’t help that the JR East and JR Tokaido offices were side by side!
Eventually, I got my tickets for my Shinkansen ride to Nagano. If possible, request for the last row, which would be where the suitcase rack is.
The JR East office had a dedicated line for foreigners, which was manned by someone proficient in English. I’d say Japan is one of the rare places where I’d rather deal with the people than the machines!
From Tokyo to Nagano
Even though the return trip was on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Kagayaki, the trips were slightly different. First, my trip out of Tokyo was after 9pm. My return trip was in the middle of the day. The experience was totally different on both rides!
From Haneda Airport to Tokyo
My very first trip from Tokyo to Nagano was making it into the city centre from Haneda Airport. The monorail was quiet and half full. In each carriage, there was a suitcase rack. However, it was elevated, so those with heavy luggage may have difficulties hoisting it up.
We had to change at Hamamatsucho, which was a modest train station by Tokyo’s standards. Although the schedule said I had 6 minutes for transfer, that being my first time at the station and at a foreign land knowing little of the language, it was rather heart thumping trying to orientate myself and navigate to the right platform in that tight time window.
And as mentioned earlier, Tokyo Station was massive. I had to navigate to the JR pass office to reserve my seats, before finding my way to the platform to catch the Kagayaki. It didn’t really help that the station was still bustling with the evening peak crowd!
JR Hokuriku’s Kagayaki From Tokyo to Nagano (vice versa)
The Kagayaki is the express line that plies the route between Tokyo and Tsuruga. I didn’t know where Tsuruga was. What mattered most was the train would stop at Nagano.
On both rides, I sat in the normal (economy) class. The seats were arranged in 2-3 configuration. That being said, the seats were wide, with thick cushioning and provided plenty of legroom. The ride itself was smooth and enjoyable.
My ride up to Nagano was nearly empty. There wasn’t any scenery so to speak as it was already 9pm. However, the emptiness provided some peace and quiet for me to recover from the over-stimulation at Tokyo Station and ease into holiday mode.
Riding back to Nagano was more eventful. The carriage was so crowded. Even though I had booked the suitcase racks, they were already taken up (unrightfully) when I boarded. So I had to park it in my legroom space. Thankfully, I was assigned the aisle seat of the 2-seater. No view, but not trapped!
Eating was permitted on the Shinkansen, so what better way to experience the ride than to have an ekiben? My ekiben of the day was fried prawn and pork fillet bento from Meijitei. Despite having to tuck my suitcase under the tray table, I could still savour the dish comfortably. And Japanese being Japanese, the ride was equally quiet even though it was full.
Local train From Snow Monkey Park back to Nagano
Yudanaka – Shinshu-Nakano – Nagano
Early that morning, I had taken the shuttle bus from Nagano to the Snow Monkey Park. I chose to take the local train for my return trip. The journey would start from Yudanaka, the small town nearest to the Snow Monkey Park. As I was travelling during off peak season, the direct train to Nagano was only scheduled every other hour. I ended up on the train scheduled for transfer at Shinshu-Nakano.
The first leg was on a quaint local train. Due to the low ridership, I actually got to enjoy a near empty carriage by myself. I sat in the first carriage right behind the driver, and could see right past his shoulder to catch the sights on the railroad.
This local train traversed through the scenic fields. As the evening sun hovered above the horizon, the fields were bathed in warm lights and shadows.
Shinshu-Nakano Station was a busy transfer hub. My connecting train was equally crowded. In fact, it got packed to the brim as we advanced towards Nagano, as students leaving school and workers who knocked off early started packing into the train. The suburban landscape whizzing past the window eventually grew heavier as we ventured further into Nagano’s city limits, almost hypnotising. It was then I jolted back to reality and realised that, hey! I was on a metro, not a commuter train.
As the train pulled into Nagano station, so did the day’s trip. The local train at Yudanaka felt so distant as I pushed through the evening crowd.
Limited Express train between Nagano and Matsumoto
Just an hour’s train ride away was Matsumoto, another touristy mid-size city. It has one of Japan’s oldest surviving castle and many onsens due to its proximity to the mountains. The limited express train starts from Nagano towards Nagoya, and reaches Matsumoto in about an hour. Therefore, Matsumoto makes for a great day trip from Nagano.
The limited express on Shinonoi Line – called Shinano – was a cross between the metro and Shinkansen. It’s not a bullet train, but it offers comfortable, reserved seating unlike the usual metro train. The train is also smaller, as the seats are in a 2-2 configuration, compared to the Shinkansen’s 2-3 seating.
My ride out to Matsumoto was at 11am, which was well past the morning peak. As such, the train was rather empty. On the other hand, my return trip coincided with the evening peak, so I ended up with a rather packed train. Despite that, the ride was quiet with everyone minding their own business.
As my JR East Pass covered the section of train ride between Nagano and Matsumoto, seat reservation was also free. The seat reservation could be done at any of the self service kiosks in Nagano Station, or at the JR office during office hours. And considering how packed the train was in the evening, it would really be ideal to reserve a seat for a JR Pass holder.
From Ginza to Narita Airport via Nippori
My next big train ride was the one towards the airport at the end of my trip. The entire journey consisted of 2 parts. I would take the metro to Nippori, where I would change to the Narita Skyliner.
The first leg was a mere 26 minutes from Ginza. Although it was around 3pm, the train was crowded nonetheless. And come to think of it, it was the first time I had taken the train to the airport in Tokyo. In the past, I would take the limousine bus that would take me straight to the airport, less the hassle of pushing through the crowded train stations.
Narita Skyliner
The Narita Skyliner was a less claustrophobic experience, since only those with reservations could board the train. Nonetheless, I still couldn’t get my suitcase up the designated suitcase rack, as the train was packed full of departing passengers. Again, I had to squeeze my suitcase in my legroom. Except this time, I was at the window seat, so my aisle seat mate had to do a little tango with me as she too, had her luggage at the seat. At that very moment, I knew that if there was an emergency, I could never count on getting out alive.
It was possible to buy the Narita Skyliner ticket online. In fact, I bought it on my way from Ginza, when I recalled that the Narita Skyliner required prior reservations. Unfortunately, I forgot that I also had to pay for the JR line. Apparently, those were 2 separate products with separate payments. I was stuck at station control until I paid up my JR fare.
Sometimes, I marvel at how the Japanese could align so many moving parts and keep everything running smoothly. But I’m even more enthralled at how they could keep everything running with so many disjointed moving parts.
Parting Words
While air travel or buses might offer quick point-to-point solutions, nothing unlocks the true beauty of the Japanese landscape, especially the Central Alps, like the rail network. From the hyper-efficient Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Nagano to the slow, scenic local trains unveiling hidden towns, the journey truly is the destination here.
Japan proves that travel can be both sustainable and deeply convenient. If the thought of exchanging your JR Pass and watching the country unfold outside your window appeals to you, don’t hesitate. I’ve already started planning my next rail adventure. Till then, stay wanderlust!
If you enjoyed my trip reports, do check out my travelogues getting in touch with the nature of central Japan.
Singapore to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport on ANA B787-9 Economy Class (NH842 SIN-HND): Trip review on the early flight out of the lion city to the land of the rising sun.
Hello Nagano: Sights and bites in Nagano in between day trips out of the city
[Review] 1-Day Kamikochi & Matsumoto Castle Tour (from Nagano / Matsumoto): Hiking in the land of the gods – in the rain.
Matsumoto in 10 hours: Visiting Japan’s 1 of 3 remaining original castles, and more.
Snow Monkey Park (Jigokudani Yaen Koen) in Nagano: No snow, no monkey?
Manyo Club Toyosu Review: The ultimate onsen spa for early checkouts & Tokyo Bay views
Tokyo Stopover: High-end tempura, rare Pikachu hunts, and a 9-Story onsen escape
lyf Ginza Tokyo Review: The Ultimate Budget-Friendly Ginza Hotel Hidden Gem
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 7Pro, and edited with Google Photos.
