When I started planning for my Nagano holiday, someone suggested I go to Kamikochi, which was famous for its natural beauty. Nestled deep within the central mountains, Kamikochi offers a stunning view of the river valley with hikes of varying intensity. However, it was really out of the way and not accessible by the usual public transport. Travelling alone upped the challenge.
That was when I found a day tour by Snow Monkey Resorts. The tour included visiting Matsumoto Castle and Nawate dori in Matsumoto, before proceeding to Kamikochi. The all inclusive tour allowed me to fully immerse myself in Japan’s autumnal nature.
Trip Overview
0815hrs: Pick up at Nagano JR station
0945hrs: Pick up at Matsumoto JR station
Matsumoto Castle (entry and guided tour included)
Nawate shopping street
Kamikochi
Start at Taisho Pond (Taisho-ike), walk along Azusa River (Azushakawa), Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi), chillax
Depart Kamikochi
Drop off at Matsumoto (skipped)
1800hrs: Drop off at Nagano
Cost:
– $234.05 (via Agoda, with discount).
– Booking direct from Snow Monkey Resorts would be the cheapest (JPY23800), Klook was the most expensive (USD189.69).
Option to board at Nagano (8.15am) and Matsumoto (9.45am)
Setting Off
The day tour started off with a slight drizzle at Nagano. Our tour guide picked us up at the train station before we proceeded to Matsumoto. Unfortunately, the group who was supposed to join us pulled a no show. After waiting a good 15 minutes waiting in the cold, we finally set off to our first stop of the day: Matsumoto Castle.
Matsumoto Castle
As one of the few remaining original castles in Japan, Matsumoto Castle was THE landmark of the city. Its striking black exterior could be seen from far. Close up, touching one of its well-preserved, original wood structures would be like touching a piece of history! It was no wonder Matsumoto Castle was designated as Japanโs national treasure. The queue was long despite the rain! Luckily for us, the tour included express tickets that let us skip the queue.
The castle tour was a one way trip through the compounds, with an exhibit on the castleโs history and its relationship with the region on the lower floors, and the observation deck on the top floor. We then visited the annex, which was built as a gallery for the royals to enjoy shows (or the scenery). We had to navigate tight spaces, low clearance and steep steps, which definitely wasn’t ideal for those with mobility issues. I thanked my middle aged knees for not giving way halfway through the journey!
Nawate shopping street
Following our castle tour, we strolled to Nawate shopping street. The walking street was lined with ancient buildings, with the frog mascot helming both ends of the street. Why frogs? The river that ran parallel to the street was once very polluted. Following a cleanup exercise, the river resumed its former pristine state that even the frogs started making their home there. To commemorate this achievement, the authorities made the frogs the mascot of the shopping street.
Making it to Kamikochi’s Kappabashi (Kappa Bridge)
As the drive up to Kamikochi would take around 1.5 hours, we bought takeaways for our lunches around Nawate to consume onboard. During the trip, we also learned from our knowledgeable guide that Kamikochi referred to the โland of godsโ. We were also told to look out for the mythical human-like creature said to be roaming the mountains.
Kamikochi was a spot along the valley of Sengakaku. At an elevation of 1500m, it was also one of the earliest places where the fall colours appear in Japan. We were there in end of October, which was early autumn. As we climbed up the elevation towards Kamikochi, the surrounding trees started turning yellow.
Our plan was to alight at Taisho-ike (Taisho Pond), a pond located further down the river, and trek up to Kappa Bridge, where the Visitor Centre and bus terminal was located. As fate would have it, the rain continued throughout the day. We were unable to climb out of the cloud layer, apparently. It was raining so heavily that the tour group agreed to abandon the hike and take the bus straight to Kappabashi (Kappa Bridge).
So off we went, straight to the visitor center.
Kamikochi hike to Dakesawa Marsh (ๅฒณๆฒขๆนฟๅ)
The focal point of Kamikochi was the Kappabashi, so called for the mystical frog/turtle like spirit โKappaโ said to be residing in the area. The kanji of Kappa is ๆฒณ็ซฅ, which also literally means โriver kidโ, which in east Asian culture, refers to river spirits.
The visitor center was packed with people hiding from the rain. And it didn’t help that the visitor center was just that: seating area with simple exhibits. Nonetheless, we made the call to hike 1km (15 min) to Dakesawa Marsh (ๅฒณๆฒขๆนฟๅ).
The drizzle was deceiving. I got soaked within 5 minutes. Thankfully, my cheap Taobao Arc’teryx knockoff jacket held out. But I was soaked to the bone waist down. And kid you not, we weren’t the only ones hiking in the rain!
Despite the bad weather, admiring nature through the falling rain was surreal. I would even say it was once in a lifetime. If watching the clouds linger across the lake surface amidst the pitter patter of the rain from inside a house was therapeutic, then feeling the rain fall on my shoulders was an immersive experience.
I ended my hike with a Shinshu apple pie paired with hot black coffee. The celebrity apple pie was said to be the most popular in Kamikochi. Well, I didn’t see any other cafes around. Soโฆ ๐คท๐ปโโ๏ธ Or perhaps, the rain had chased away the long queue that would usually line up from the shop.
The apple pie was sweet, and didn’t have the same level of tartness as those that I tried in Hirosaki. It also tasted like it had been left out too long. I would definitely be very angry if I had queued up hours for this!
Returning to Nagano
Our guide was keen to show us the beauty of Kamikochi through Dakesawa Marsh. Unfortunately, the rain still got the upper hand and ruined his good intentions. We jokingly said that the rain made our tour unique, what with us being soaked from head to toe!
The van was full of laughter on the return trip. We shamelessly took off our wet shoes and socks so that we could stay comfortable for the next 2 hours. But eventually, the monotonous drone of the rain on the roof lulled us into sleep.
It was nightfall when we finally reached Nagano. Our guide brought us to try the oyaki – a regional dish of Nagano – found in one of the stalls in the train station. It was a Japanese style bun with sweet and savoury fillings to choose from. I tried the ones with mushroom filling and another one with daikon. I’d say I prefer the former, but the food item itself is a once in a lifetime experience for me.
Things to look out for – Travelling in Early Autumn
There are many day trips like the one I did; I found mine on Agoda and it cost SGD234 (USD 182). In fact, I booked my trip 3 days in advance. I guess travelling on a shoulder season has its perks.
That said, end of October/early November in the central alps of Japan was the rainy season. I was glad my rain proof jacket and hiking boots worked their magic. If not for the rain, the hike was easy as it consisted mainly of flat, well trodden paths.
None of us on the trip used an umbrella, as we all had our parka jackets with hoodies. We saw how other tourists struggled with their umbrellas, especially in Kamikochi, which made us appreciate the convenience the hoodies brought us. Even more interesting, we saw people lugging their suitcases on the dirt path in the forest. I guess it won’t hurt to say here that bringing our luggages with us to Kamikochi is sort of excessive, ya?
And it was not guaranteed that the fall colours would appear at the end of October. That said, following the Japan Meteorological Corporationโs official website would come useful, as the authorities would regularly update their fall forecast starting 2 months in advance.
Things to look out for – Navigating Matsumoto Castle
And like I mentioned, Matsumoto Castle being a national monument, visiting it came with a set of challenges. First, we had to take off our shoes, pack them into the plastic bags provided, and carry them with us throughout our castle tour. This was to protect the original but delicate flooring. As we had visited on a rainy day, it was really challenging to change in/out of our shoes on a wet floor.
Next, the castle had little windows – none on some levels – and minimal indoor lighting. I mean, it was a castle. A castle is meant for defense, so windows are a no-no. One had to watch out for the unsuspecting beam or step while walking in the castle.
Also, the spaces were built quite narrow. This was also meant to deter attacking forces from advancing upwards to the command room at the top floor. The stairs were steep and narrow, sometimes leaving little room between it and the overhead beam. The climb was especially challenging on the steps leading to the top floor. However, the reward was challenging, as the space was totally dedicated for visitors to linger around and take in the surrounding sights.
I would say people with mobility issues would find it hard, if not impossible, to tour the castle at all. That said, the expansive castle grounds offered plenty of space for picnicking, or just simply wandering about to admire the ancient architecture. To be honest, if it werenโt for the fact that it was part of a tour package, my usual mantra is always to admire landmarks from the outside.
Parting Words
What was meant to be a leisure day tour to the beautiful Kamikochi turned out to be quite an experience. The itinerary of Matsumoto Castle, Nawate Shopping Street and then hiking at Kamikochi was marred by persistent rain. However, when life gives you lemons, we make lemonade.
We saw Matsumoto Castle covered in a veil of rain and walked the old street of Niwate Dori sans crowd. Although we didn’t take the scenic hike at Kamikochi, we still caught the sights shrouded in misty rain, as well as the torrential river water rushing under the Kappa Bridge. It wasn’t the travelbook ideal trip, but it was a memorable one.
I think that’s what travelling is all about – experiencing life and what it throws at us. I wouldn’t really want a cookie cutter experience too.
If you enjoyed my trip reports, do check out my travelogues getting in touch with the nature of central Japan.
Singapore to Tokyoโs Haneda Airport on ANA B787-9 Economy Class (NH842 SIN-HND): Trip review on the early flight out of the lion city to the land of the rising sun.
Hello Nagano: Sights and bites in Nagano in between day trips out of the city
[Review] 1-Day Kamikochi & Matsumoto Castle Tour (from Nagano / Matsumoto): Hiking in the land of the gods – in the rain.
Matsumoto in 10 hours: Visiting Japan’s 1 of 3 remaining original castles, and more.
Snow Monkey Park (Jigokudani Yaen Koen) in Nagano: No snow, no monkey?
Till then, stay wanderlust!
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 9 Pro XL, and edited with Google Photos.