N years back, I saw a travel video about Cape Soya, which was the northernmost point of Japan. Cape Soya, Wakkanai was painted in an image likened to the edge of the world. It left me yearning to make a trip up one day. And I did. Here was my wild experience up north.
Arriving At Our Base in Sapporo, Hokkaido
The first part of the journey was actually to make it to Japan. Having been to Hokkaido back in summer 2014, I really looked forward to returning to the nature wonderland in its wintry season. Hence the flight from Singapore to Sapporo, with a layover in Haneda Airport in Tokyo.
The 10 hour flight included a red-eye on Singapore Airlines, so the first order of the day upon reaching Sapporo was to recharge. It didn’t help that we encountered a heavy snowstorm on the day of our arrival.
The airport transfer from New Chitose Airport dropped us just 2 blocks away from our hotel, but in the heavy snow, it was the most arduous journey to make.
The snow blurred our vision. Our hands were freezing from being exposed to the wind while pushing our suitcases. Even worse, the pavement was slippery from the ice that formed the night before. It made me wonder if it was a right choice to make the trip to Cape Soya, which was further north and exposed to freezing arctic winds from Siberia.
Our actual trip up north commenced in the early morning of our 3rd day in Japan. The stay at ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino allowed us to recharge from the long flight. Without the hassle from lugging our suitcases, we hopped onto JR Airport Express to catch our flight from New Chitose Airport.
Side note: Thanks to our hotel’s convenient location in Susukino, we were only a 10 minute train ride from Sapporo JR station. We also went to recce the sprawling station the day before, so that we would not be lost and could still catch our train.
Flying Into Wakkanai, Hokkaido On ANA Wings NH4841 Bombardier Dash-8
Our flight to Wakkanai from New Chitose Airport was on a Bombardier Dash-8 propeller plane operated by ANA Wings, the domestic arm of ANA. If my memory didn’t fail me, my last propeller flight was from Kathmandu to Pokhara in Nepal back in 2009.
Trip Overview
New Chitose to Wakkanai (CTS – WKJ)
Flight Number: NH4841
Aircraft Type / Registration: DHC8 / JA854A
Departure (ETD/ATD): 1020hrs / 1026hrs
Arrival (ETA/ATA): 1120hrs / 1108hrs
Duration (Estimated/Actual): 1hrr / 42m
Seat: 13D (EY)
Meal Service: Tea
Inflight Entertainment: None
That being said, the Dash-8 was a much bigger aircraft and felt more stable. At least it didn’t churn my guts when the plane banked to change directions, like it did 14 years ago. However, that doesn’t detract us from the fact that it was still a small aircraft.
How small? It was a single aisle, in a 2-2 seat configuration. My seat at 13D was right smack beside the propeller engine. My disappointment was more because the engine blocked my view.
The seat was surprisingly spacious for a small aircraft. However, my foot was in an awkward position as the fuselage curved inwards near the floor.
There was no inflight entertainment, not even a shared TV. However, this was a non issue for a short 1h 45m flight. The manual air vent was a big throwback to my younger days.
After a short tea break served by the lovely cabin crew, we were already nearing our destination. The undulating snow covered mountain ranges eventually smoothed out as we approached the airfield by the Pacific Ocean.
Riding Into Wakkanai, Hokkaido
Wakkanai Airport was a quaint building that overlooked the sea across the runway. In fact, one could finish exploring the terminal in under 15 minutes. Since it was a domestic flight and we had no check in luggage, we were out of the terminal in a jiffy.
The remaining journey to Cape Soya wasn’t a direct one. Although the airport was in between Wakkanai city and Cape Soya, we still had to take a bus into the city, to catch the bus to Cape Soya.
But no worries! The Japanese had the bus timings all sorted out! 20 minutes later, we were in Wakkanai city centre, with 1 hour 20 minutes to spare before catching the bus to Cape Soya.
Side note: The bus towards Wakkanai stops right outside the airport terminal. After exiting the airport, turn left and the stop is a stone’s throw away. The bus fare was XXX and you can pay in cash (exact fare) when exiting the bus at the front.
The bus station at Wakkanai was huge for a town. Even with Google Maps, I took some time to orientate myself. The first order of the day was to purchase the bus tickets for Cape Soya, which could be done in the Wakkanaishi Information Centre. That was the biggest and swankiest building around, so it was hard not to miss it.
We were darn worried that we could not catch the flight back. Based on the bus timings, it seemed that the airport shuttle would leave the station before our return bus arrived.
When the staff overheard our conversation, she fished out the bus schedule of the airport shuttle, placed it side by side with the Cape Soya’s timings, and gave us directions on how to make the transfer. We had to drop off at a bus stop outside of Wakkanai in order to catch the airport shuttle on its way to the airport.
High Latitude Lunch at Soup Curry Garaku
With 1 hour 20 minutes to spare – of which we spent 10 minutes buying the tickets for the return bus tickets to Cape Soya – we had time to settle our lunch. With a quick flick on Google Maps, Soup Curry Garaku turned up as the highest rating restaurant (that was still open in the dead of winter).
As the name suggested, the shop specialised in soup curry, which was a signature in Hokkaido. It was just a block away from Wakkanaishi Information Centre, which made it a convenient spot to recharge without worrying that we would miss the Cape Soya bus. The restaurants-bar was decked out in heavy wood furnishing. Even though it was lunch time, the place was empty and we got an entire booth seat to ourselves.
Being a carnivore, I had to order the soup curry with chicken and vegetables. Do not be mistaken. Although the curry was soupy, it was still rich in flavour. It was hardly “watered down curry”. What I loved about the dish was how the ingredients were slow cooked to be soft and chewy.
The meat came off the bones easily and was so soft it melted in my mouth. Similarly, the vegetables, like the carrot and capsicum, were stewed to tenderness. In fact, the umbrella of the broccoli soaked up the curry, which filled my mouth with umami with every bite.
Exploring Downtown Wakkanai & Taking The Bus To Cape Soya
We still had time to kill after lunch. Although we were comfortable and warm in Soup Curry Garaku, we decided to venture out and explore downtown Wakkanai. We headed out to a park that was unfortunately closed due to the thick snow that had accumulated. The thick snow tempted us to venture beyond the railing, but abandoned the idea when it became too strenuous to trudge through knee deep snow.
Then we turned to view the towering wall built to protect the town from the tsunami. Finally, we loitered around Wakkanaishi Information Centre, taking pictures of the signs for “Japan’s Northernmost Train Station” and “Japan’s Northernmost City”. With 3 “Northernmost” titles checked off the list, I guess all the effort was worthwhile.
Almost everyone on the bus was headed for Cape Soya, even though the bus also served the local community along the way. The houses lining the road become sparse as we leave the main urban area. Eventually, we were out on long stretches of empty road, with the sea on our left, and the vast snow field of Wakkanai to our right.
Cape Soya! The Northernmost Point in Japan
This final stretch of the journey was both mesmerising and hypnotising. Eventually, the 1 hour bus ride came to an end. It was hard to miss the stop, since everyone was alighting at the same place.
A word of warning. Be sure to wear your coats and gloves properly before stepping out of the bus. The winds whipped at us brutally, slapping us out of our drowsy road trip.
Despite the strong winds, everyone flocked to the towering monument marking the northernmost tip of Japan. Handphones were whipped out. Cameras were mounted. But no one could get a decent selfie. Not with the crazy wind whipping our hair in disarray!
There were only enough selfies to take around the monument. And yet we had 40 minutes to spare. We crossed the road and climbed the wooden steps leading up the hill overlooking Cape Soya.
It was a mini plateau at the top, which housed an array of buildings.
Central to the field was the towering monument dedicated to the lives lost to the crash of Korean Air Lines KAL007, which happened in the height of the Cold War.
Close to it was the Future of Our Children Peace Bell, which was also built to signify the hope for peace in an area that had been embroiled in a conflict between 2 large countries.
Interestingly, the wind was milder up there. It was as though nature decided to maintain a sombre ambience around the 2 monuments.
In a less serious tone, there was an observatory, a light tower and an abandoned navy’s watchtower overlooking the cliff. I explored the exterior of the latter. There was no railings, so a misstep would mean plummeting to a 20m drop, so I wouldn’t recommend it for those meek hearted.
Leaving Cape Soya
Eventually, the return bus came to pick us up. Special note, though, that Japanese buses are notoriously on time. We nearly missed the bus because I was spending extra time in the toilet clearing my boogie.
The winter sun was already setting, casting a golden hue on the road before us. Coupled with the silhouette it cast in the bus, it felt like a trip through a time tunnel.
Our bus would not connect to the airport shuttle at Wakkanai station. Instead, the staff advised us to drop off at Shiomi Bus Stop and catch that shuttle on its way to the airport.
The station was a sheltered transfer stop of sorts, but we didn’t want to stay in the small waiting area. As we had 25 minutes before the airport shuttle arrived, we walked the area around the station, taking in as much of the air in this far flung part of Japan as possible.
We found that we had the entire bus to ourselves. We guess the other Cape Soya travel partners either chose to stay over at Wakkanai, or took the train south.
Wakkanai Airport & Leaving On ANA Wings NH4844
The Wakkanai Airport was just as quiet. As we were early – it was a domestic flight after all – we explored the compact building.
The ground level was the departure and arrival hall (“hall” is actually an overstatement), with the offices one level higher. Through the stairs at the end of the terminal, we got to the highest floor, which housed the indoor observatory. The expansive room looked over to the apron, which was empty that evening. The runway cut a line between land and sea, where a light mist was forming over the horizon as the northernmost Japanese airport slid into the peaceful night.
By the time our flight took off, night had set. It was the same aircraft (the model, I mean) that took us to Wakkanai. I was still seated beside the propeller, but that didn’t matter. Because no one could see nothing over the remote part of Hokkaido.
Trip Overview
Wakkanai to New Chitose (WKJ – CTS)
Flight Number: NH4844
Aircraft Type / Registration: DHC8 / JA852A
Departure (ETD/ATD): 1705hrs / 1717hrs
Arrival (ETA/ATA): 1805hrs / 1800 hrs
Duration (Estimated/Actual): 1h / 43m
Seat: 8D (EY)
Meal Service: Tea
Inflight Entertainment: None
It was amazing that the aircraft was full. I mean, where were these people when we were waiting in the airport? Who would have travelled to such a far flung place?
The quiet flight was in contrast to the excitement at Cape Soya just 3 hours before. Even then, we’re planning for the next adventure. The southernmost part of Japan? (Technically, I grew up in the southernmost part of the imperial Japanese empire. You know… Synonan-to)
We wrapped up the day to pick up snacks at the airport. Without the pressure of catching a flight, the train ride back to Sapporo was more relaxed.
Parting Words
So that was it, my adventure up to the northernmost part of Japan. Cape Soya’s probably the closest I would have been to Russia.
We spent almost an entire day for a brief 40 minute stop at the northernmost tip of Japan. Right up to the day trip, we were still worried that the winter weather would take a turn for the worse. It was OK to have to give the excursion a miss. But if we were to be stuck at Wakkanai due to inclement weather…
And yet, the most memorable parts of a journey are the ones we go all the way to overcome challenges and make it happen. This adventure, out onto the northernmost point of Japan at Cape Soya, was one of them.
If you enjoyed this post, be sure to check out my travelogues of the entire northeast Japan winter trip, which included stay over at the fabled town of Ginzan Onsen, catching the beautiful night view of Hakodate, visiting one of the last few original Japanese castles at Hirosaki, and tasting everything apple in Aomori.
Till then, stay wanderlust!
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 4a, and edited with Google Photos.
How to Get to Cape Soya
Catch a Flight
ANA operates flights into Wakkanai and Sapporo is the most convenient point of departure. Unless you intend to stay over at Wakkanai, our flight, NH4841 departing at 1020am, was the latest flight to catch.
Hop on the Shuttle to Wakkanai
The airport shuttle was timed to the arrival of the incoming flights. Therefore, there really wasn’t much time to spare after disembarking to explore the airport.
The bus would stop right outside of the terminal. You wouldn’t miss the stop that is just by the left of the main door.
Buy the Bus Tickets to Cape Soya
At Wakkanaishi Information Centre, which is just beside the bus terminal where the airport shuttle ends. You can buy one-way or return tickets. If you need to catch the flight out of Wakkanai, be sure to ask the ticket staff to guide you on how to connect to the airport shuttle.
Make Your Way to Cape Soya
The bus stop is around the corner, outside of Seicomart. After about 1 hour, the you arrive at Cape Soya. Enjoy!
Retrace Your Journey for Your Return Trip
The bus stops just across the road from where you alighted. So be sure to wait there about 5 minutes before the scheduled departure.
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