Aomori prefecture is an oft-overlooked tourist destination, much less Hirosaki. At a 45 minute train ride away from Aomori city, it was an even smaller city, but with a castle!
When planning for the northern Japan holiday, we understood that most of the vacation would be covered by day trips. Aomori city, being a key transport node in northern Honshu, was a “base city” to explore the bigger Aomori prefecture.
On our day of arriving in Aomori from Hakodate, we had already ventured out to Asamushi, an onsen village by the sea some 20 minute train ride away. The following day, after a quick look around Aomori’s city centre and a brunch, we set out for a 6 hour adventure to Hirosaki.
Getting to Hirosaki
JR Tsugaru No.4 (For Akita)
つがる4号(秋田行)
12:14 → 12:59
The trip to Hirosaki involved taking the JR Tsugaru No 4 train for Akita, right from Aomori train station. As we had started using our 5-day JR pass 3 days prior in our journey from Sapporo – Hakodate – Aomori, we could also use it for the ride to and from Hirosaki.
The train runs at about every 30 minutes to and from Aomori, so some forward planning is needed. To be honest, Aomori really didn’t have much to offer as it’s not a tourist city, so we ended leaving for Hirosaki half an hour earlier than planned, after our brunch at Uguisu.
Getting Around Hirosaki
The key highlight in Hirosaki is Hirosaki Castle. Taking the Dotemachi Loop Bus is a cheap and convenient way to get there. The bus route passes by key tourist spots in the inner/old city and loops at Hirosaki Castle. No matter the length of the trip, all you needed to do was to drop 100 Yen per pax when alighting the bus.
Hirosaki Castle
For a 6-hr day trip, the bus loop was more than sufficient. We boarded the 100 Yen bus from the stop right outside of the train station. For non-Japanese speakers, the stop was marked with eye catching stickers, so there’s no worry about missing the bus stop.
Our first stop was Hirosaki Castle, which was the furthest from the train station. There were a few stops along the perimeters of the castle, but we dropped off at the first one – near the Former Hirosaki City Library on the southern end of the castle.
Hirosaki Castle was the seat of the Tsugaru clan during the era of imperial Japan. Although it was burnt down and rebuilt several times throughout its history, it was one of the few Japanese castles that were not rebuilt in modern times. In other words, Hirosaki Castle is as old as you can get in Japan.
Therefore, even though it didn’t sit on expansive grounds nor was built as high as the Osaka Castle, there was this ancient rustic charm to it. In fact, while walking through the stone gates and sand footpaths, I felt like I was in a Korean palace instead.
We were blessed with great weather. It was snowing lightly, which made for an easy stroll through the fairytale-like historic landmark.
That was… until we reached the castle proper. Despite reaching the castle after lunch, we were apparently one of the first people in the park. The ground around the castle was covered in knee deep snow! (I was later reminded that the footpath around the castle was ploughed free of snow; I was the one who walked into the snow to get my million-dollar photo shot).
A stone’s throw away from the castle, one could get a vantage view of Hirosaki. As a rural city far up north, Hirosaki was coated in a layer of white wonder that made the climb up worth it.
Kotori Cafe
After an intensive workout climbing up to the castle, it was time for tea break. There were plenty of recommendations on Google but we settled for one that was near one of the 100Y bus stops – Kotori Cafe.
Kotori Cafe sat in Hirosaki Municipal Hyakkokumachi Gallery – a local exhibition centre that looked like it was re-purposed from a mansion. Being the quiet town it is of Hirosaki, the exhibition hall was also peaceful. There was an exhibit going on, but the patrons were quiet and low profile.
The cafe itself was a superb place to hide from the cold. Its interior of warm tones was also a throwback to my travels to Boston. Although the staff weren’t that good in English, their menu provided pictures that were helpful in placing an order.
Like Hakodate’s Kikuizumi, the parfait was adorned with tropical fruits. The matcha muffin also came piping hot and rich in taste. This made hiding out in Kotori Cafe from the harsh winter cold all the more heartwarming.
Kan’eidō
Next stop, we took the 100Y bus to Kan’eidō near the Hirosaki train station. Kan’eidō is an old school confectionery that started selling apple pies made from Hirosaki apples since the Showa period.
Like a sandwich, the moderately sweet apple pie rich in buttery flavour is only available in winter. Each apple pie also comes in sealed packaging, so it’s a great choice for bringing a piece of Hirosaki for loved ones at home.
Most of the time, apple pies taste tart. However, the buttery flavour made up for it. I also liked how the flaky pie crumbled in the mouth with each bite. As the pies were pre-packed, I believe it would taste even better when warmed.
Siegfried (Ito-Yokado Hirosaki Store)
The next stop in this mini-apple pie hunt was a store inside the Ito-Yokado Hirosaki Store, just a block away from Kan’eidō. It was at the basement of the departmental store, not tagged on Google Maps. To find it, just proceed to basement 1 and look for the common seating area. Siegfried is on the perimeter of this area.
For those who like cinnamon and raisins, then Siegfried’s apple pie would be ideal. The handmade flaky crust was filled with apricot jam, making it slightly acidic.
We also had Apple Tart, which was a good alternative if the apple pies are sold out. The caramelised icing added a sweet overtone to the tart apple fillings.
According to the Hirosaki Apple Pie Guide Map, the souvenir store at the train station also sells a variety of apple pies from brands in the region. Therefore, people who wanted to do a last minute shopping, especially to bring apple pies back home, can drop by Brick A-Factory.
Torisho Hirosaki Store
Having had so much carbs, we dropped by Torisho Hirosaki Store for some protein top up. The hole-in-the-wall sells Nanban Chicken and Karaage Chicken. The compact store had standing space for around 5 people to wait for and eat their food. As we were there outside of meal hours, we had the entire space to ourselves.
As for the chicken, nothing beats eating fried chicken fresh out of the pan. The aroma of oil hits every palate at the right note. Having a piping hot karaage was also a great form of comfort after walking some 15 minutes in the cold. If only the Nanban Chicken was cut into smaller pieces, it would be a greater joy to eat the snacks!
Parting Words
By the time we left for the train station, dusk had fallen. There was a drizzle of a snow. Thankfully, the walk to the station was under 5 minutes. Even more thankful – the weather had been kind despite the forecast of snow and rain the entire day.
We also ended our day earlier than planned, so there was time to sit at the station while the wonders of the day settled in our minds and hearts.
The train back to Aomori was the Ou Line, which was also the train we took into the city the day before – on our final leg of Hakodate to Aomori ride on the Shinkansen.
Like Asamushi, the train left every 30 minutes, so prior planning is still required. That being said, there is quite a number of stores, from convenience stores, fashion department and souvenir stores, in the station for one to pass their time while waiting for the train.
Hirosaki is a small city with the iconic Hirosaki Castle. That made Hirosaki an ideal day trip out of Aomori. 6-hours is more than sufficient for a slow and leisurely tour of the old city. However, if you have more time to spare, especially during winter, you can also visit the apple farms that produce the famous Aomori apples.
If you enjoy my travelogue to Hirosaki, be sure to check out my entire series on my trip to northern Japan. After Aomori, we’ll be going down to the fabled Ginzan Onsen.
If you liked this post, do check out my review on ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino. With its clean rooms and convenient location, I thought it was great accommodation for exploring Sapporo, Hokkaido.
For those of you staying for a longer time at Hokkaido, follow my adventure to the northernmost point of Japan – Cape Soya. The day trip up north will be worthwhile!
Till then, stay wanderlust!
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 4a, and edited with Google Photos.
Highlights of Hirosaki in 6 hours
Hirosaki Castle
1 Shimoshiroganecho, Hirosaki, Aomori 036-8356, Japan
https://www.hirosakipark.jp/
Kotori Cafe
コトリcafe
Japan, 〒036-8035 Aomori, Hirosaki, Hyakkokumachi, 3-2 弘前市立百石町展示館 1F
http://harappa-h.org/contents/kotoricafe.php
+81172888504
Kan’eidō
甘栄堂
Japan, 〒036-8001 Aomori, Hirosaki, Daikancho, 41 1F
https://www.hirosaki-kanko.or.jp/web/details.html
+81172321011
Siegfried (Ito-Yokado Hirosaki Store)
3 Chome-2-1 Ekimae, Hirosaki, Aomori 036-8002, Japan
https://stores.itoyokado.co.jp/063
Torisho Hirosaki Store
からあげ専門店 鶏笑 弘前店
17-12 Ekimaecho, Hirosaki, Aomori 036-8003, Japan
https://store.nis-torisho.com/detail/249
+81172386566
English 
Chinese
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