Hakodate, the 3rd largest city in Hokkaido, always stole the limelight with its iconic night view of its cityscape. The seaside city sprawl extended from Mount Hakodate into the surrounding plains that were nestled within the mountain range. As such, one could catch a panoramic view from Mount Hakodate, that consisted of glittering city lights, flanked by 2 great bodies of water and set against the mountain ranges looming from the background. It was an unspeakable feeling to view the landscape that captured the imagination of many in person.
Of course, Hakodate is more than its pretty sights. As part of my winter travel through northern Japan, I stopped by Hakodate for a night before venturing across the Tsugaru Strait to Aomori in Honshu island. Here was my 22-hour winter adventure in downtown Hakodate.
From Sapporo to Hakodate on JR Train
Starting from my hotel at Susukino, Sapporo, we took the local subway before switching to the JR Hokuto Line at Sapporo Station. The 4-hour train ride took us right to downtown Hakodate by noon. Thankfully, our hotel, Four Points Hakodate (now known as Premier Hotel – Cabin President – Hakodate), was right across the street from Hakodate Station. That saved us a lot of time (and hassle), especially when the streets were covered in ice!
Like any other Japanese city, Hakodate covered a huge area at the southern tip of Hokkaido with its urban sprawl. However, its famous tourist sites were mainly found in and around the peninsula that separated Hakodate Bay from the Tsugaru Strait. At the end of the peninsula stood Mount Hakodate, where most day trips would culminate into a stunning view of the cityscape.
The main attractions of the peninsula were connected by a tram line. There were buses running in parallel to the tram (but on different streets) too, but they ran on lower frequencies. In fact, I preferred the tram, as the tram stops had shelters and plenty of information for tourists to navigate the area.
Komeda’s Coffee Hakodate Bay Area
Fresh off the JR train, the first order of the day was lunch. After checking into our hotel and 2 tram stops and a 10-min stroll later, we were at Komeda’s Coffee Hakodate Bay Area. The Nagoya-based cafe chain served up comfort food like pancakes and katsu toasts, great for settling down after a train ride.
The warm tones of the interior was a great welcome after the winter stroll. Immediately after sitting down at one of the booth seats, we were served a hot towel and ice water (like a true blue Japanese!). We then proceeded to order the cafe’s signature pancake and pork cutlet sandwich.
The pancake was topped with a generous amount of ice cream, just like its name Mini Shiro Noir, which was shiro (white in Japanese) on noir (dark in French) pastry. Don’t be fooled by its appearance, though. The cake-like dessert tasted exactly like a pancake. A thick one that is. We also drizzled syrup over the milky white soft serve ice cream paired with strawberries to add to the sugar rush.
The unassuming katsu toast, with a thick cut katsu snuggled between 2 thick slices of crispy toast, packed a flavourful punch. As a meat lover, I had shamelessly gone without bread.The serving of the pancake was huge and I had enough carbs for the day. Despite its thickness, the katsu was well cooked and maintained its tenderness within.
Komeda’s Coffee Hakodate Bay Area was quiet in the early afternoon. Except for a student, most of the customers were retirees enjoying their slow paced life in laid back Hakodate. It was definitely a great start to an idyllic tour of Hakodate.
Komeda’s Coffee Hakodate Bay Area
27-8 Toyokawacho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0065, Japan
http://www.komeda.co.jp/search/shopdetail.php
+81138867112
Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse and Hachiman-Zaka Slope
After having our fill at Komeda’s Coffee, we took a stroll to my next destination: Kikuizumi, perched on the hillside overlooking Hakodate Bay. The famous Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, which was a mix of industrial and old Japanese style buildings repurposed into a tourist shopping strip, was on the way. Its red walled buildings looked superb against the clear blue sky that day. Standing by the waterside, the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse looked out onto the tranquil waters of Hakodate Bay. Those looking to take insta-worthy photos for memory sake should stop by this Hakodate landmark!
Past the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, we were in the Motomachi district, a neighbourhood consisting of Western style buildings from the early 20th century. Since it was set at the foot of Mount Hakodate, it was also known for its steep streets. Over there, we went past another local landmark: the Hachiman-Zaka slope.
Around Christmas time, this street would be donned in dazzling lights, providing a great after dusk activity. However, we were there wayyy past Christmas and it was only late afternoon back then. I could only imagine how the lights would bedazzle over the snow covered streets against a serene night sky!
Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse (金森赤レンガ倉庫)
14-12 Suehirocho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0053, Japan
https://www.hakodate-kanemori.com/
+81138275530
Hachiman-Zaka Slope
Motomachi, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0054, Japan
https://www.city.hakodate.hokkaido.jp/docs/2022042500230/files/E_10.pdf
Kikuizumi (茶房 菊泉)
After a 5 minute climb up the Hakodate hill side, we reached Kikuizumi for a dessert break. Kikuizumi, literally meaning “Chrysanthemum Spring” (the water spring, not season spring), represents a state of tranquillity and purity.
We were greeted warmly by the staff at its old Japanese style entrance. Since we were early, we got a chance to pick our seats between old school Japanese floor seating and contemporary cafe seats. We chose the latter, which were also by the window and offered a panoramic view of Hakodate Bay. And yes, it was also more comfortable for old bones like me.
Kikuizumi is famous for its parfait, so we ordered the Winter Edition Parfait, along with Zenzai, a traditional Japanese dessert. With 2 scoops of ice cream on a bed of jelly cubes and paired with fresh fruits, the parfait was a great way to reward oneself after climbing the Hachiman-Zaka slope. Definitely a great comfort food!
Zenzai, on the other hand, was a dessert of warm red bean paste topped with colourful mochi balls. It made a perfect pairing with a cup of hot green tea, creating a balance between tart and sweetness. For those who detest the winter cold, Zenzai is a superb choice for warming up after venturing out in the cold.
The view from Kikuizumi was splendid. It overlooked the roofs of plenty of houses into the sprawling waters of Hakodate Bay. The rest of the city melded into a thin line at the foot of the mountain ranges in the distance. As the setting sun was behind Mount Hakodate, the cityscape was bathed in light golden hue. If we weren’t rushing to catch the sunset from Mt Hakodate Observatory, I wouldn’t want to leave my spot by the window!. Eventually, we bade goodbye to the quaint old Kikuizumi and headed for the Observatory’s ropeway base station.
Kikuizumi (茶房 菊泉)
14-5 Motomachi, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0054, Japan
https://www.facebook.com/saboukikuizumi.official
+81138220306
Mt Hakodate Observatory
Going Up To the Observatory
The Hakodate Mountain Observatory is the only place to take in the iconic Hakodate view. At 334m, it offers a panoramic view of the Hakodate peninsula, flanked by the Hakodate Bay and Tsugaru Strait.
Like the Mount Moiwa Observatory in Sapporo (https://zenovyap.com/what-to-do-in-sapporo-other-than-skiing/), the Hakodate Mountain Observatory is best accessed by the ropeway. The ropeway base station is located a few blocks from Kikuizumi (no more climbing of slopes, though). It is also about a 15 minute climb away from the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse.
January is considered shoulder season, so the ropeway ride operates at a frequency of 30 minutes. However, the frequency was upped to 15 minutes around sunset, as that was when everyone flocked to the observatory for the million dollar view. The return ride cost us JPY1,500. But seriously, who buys a one-way ticket up?
Being the kiasu Singaporeans, we were up there before 4pm, a good 1 hour before sunset. That gave us time to find a good spot. We alighted from the ropeway into the indoor viewing platform. It had clean and big windows overlooking Hakodate. But as night fell, the indoor lights would cast reflections on the glass and affect the view. Therefore, we had to bite the bullet and head out to the outdoor viewing platforms above.
Capturing the Splendour of Hakodate
And mind you, there were two platforms, and everyone would be crowding at the lower one. Just a flight of steps away, the upper platform offered a 360 degree view (though apart from the Hakodate Bay view, the rest was just mountains) that many missed out on. We found a perfect spot to wait for sunset and take pictures of Hakodate Bay both in the day and at night!
Do note that the viewing platforms are outdoors, so if you want to park yourselves out there for a good 1 hour plus in winter, be sure to pile on the layers.
The hour-long wait in the cold was worth it. We were able to see the city below light up gradually as dusk fell. That gave us the opportunity to take photos of the city’s skylines in various light.
The crowd grew with the increasing darkness. Everyone was jostling for the premium viewing spot. It was really a test of grit as we stayed put while making sure we didn’t drop our phones over the edge when being shoved at or as our fingers got numb!
Mt. Hakodate Ropeway – Mountain Base Station
19-7 Motomachi, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0054, Japan
http://334.co.jp/
+81138233105
Pastry Snaffle’s
Eventually, we took the pictures that we wanted and proceeded back down to town. The walk down was trickier than the way up. The ice covered walkway was a test for our calves and ankles!
We dropped by Pastry Snaffle’s at Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse to warm ourselves up after being out in the cold wintry night for 2 hours. By then, the landmark was empty. (Perhaps everyone was up at the Hakodate Mountain Observatory)
The Snaffles are a soft mini cake with a thick texture. We ordered their signature Cheese Omelette and Chocolate flavours. The “Catch Cakes”, which the locals fondly referred to, fit snugly in the palm, almost negating the sinfulness of snuffing such a sweet dessert down our throats. *cues self deception feels*
Customers who bought the Snaffles only could only take the standing spots, while the luxury of seated tables were reserved for those who bought beverages. For those who loved the Snaffles, the accompanying souvenir shop offered a variety of flavours and packaging for takeaways. However, the Snaffles have short shelf lives. If you just wanted to buy some back for sharing with your loved ones, the common flavours are also available at the souvenir shops at the Japanese airports, so there’s no need to rush to buy them at the shop in Hakodate downtown.
Pastry Snaffles
13-9 Suehirocho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0053, Japan
https://www.snaffles.jp/
+81138271240
Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu
We took the tram to the other side of downtown for our nightly onsen soak. Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu is 2 blocks away from the nearest tram stop: Matsukaze-Cho. The walk cut through a quiet part of the town, with parts of the pavement pedestrian unfriendly due to the thick snow and ice. However, the effort was worth it!
After about 10 minutes trudging through the cold, we arrived at the posh looking onsen, located at the ground floor of Hotel Global View Hakodate. The staff attended to us in fluent English and ushered us into the warm confines of the bathhouse.
Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu was well fitted with spacious changing and wash up areas, indoor and outdoor pools as well as massage rooms. I personally found the indoor pool area too hot and humid. Within 10 minutes, I was at the outdoor pool.
Despite its name, the outdoor pool was well walled up, leaving only the roof exposed. The water was equally hot – too hot for me, in fact – so I had to frequently get out to sit by the edge to cool down. Yet the wintry cold would drive me back into the water again. I guess that was the joy of soaking in hot baths in winter!
Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu was clean and had hotter pools. However, its distance from the nearest tram stop made it a challenge to reach during winter. That being said, most onsen or bathhouses in downtown Hakodate were in hotels exclusively for their own guests. The public onsen were all in the onsen town of Yunokawa, which was about a 40 minutes tram ride from Hakodate JR station. Yunokawa was a tad too far for time starved tourists like me. Instead, Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu was the best option for quickie soak.
Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu
25-3 Omoricho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0034, Japan;
https://www.rio-hotels.co.jp/hakodatebettei/spa.html
+81138241126
Ramen Syoten (ラーメン専科笑てん)
The final stop of the day was dinner at Ramen Syoten (ラーメン専科笑てん). It was a modest ramen shop known for its Hakodate Shio Ramen (salt ramen). Lucky for us, it was off peak hour, so we had the entire place to ourselves.
We had Shio Ramen and Shoyu Ramen, with fried gyozas as add ons. After walking for about 30 minutes from Tennen Onsen, the hot noodle soups warmed us up from the inside. The clear umami soups were refreshing to the palate. We managed to strike a conversation with the famously friendly “Uncle Laugh” (which I assumed was why the name was called “syoten”, or “laughing shop”) with our limited Japanese. He told us that his shop tended to be less crowded on weekends, since his clientele was mostly office workers and tourists.
Ramen Syoten is also famous for its Curry Ramen, which I only recalled after leaving the place. Well, if there’s ever a next time, I’ll give it a try!
As Ramen Syoten was halfway between Tennen Onsen and my hotel, it was another 15 minute walk. However, since we were nearer to downtown, there were more covered walkways free of snow and ice to walk on, making it an easier walk.
Ramen Syoten (ラーメン専科笑てん)
4-1 Matsukazecho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0035, Japan
+81138229050
Premier Hotel – Cabin President – Hakodate (formerly Four Points Hakodate)
Our accommodation for the night was Four Points Hakodate. (It is now known as Premier Hotel – Cabin President – Hakodate, which goes to show how much I procrastinated writing this travelogue!). As mentioned earlier, this hotel was great as it sat right across the train station and tram station. The short distance was a blessing for those with roller suitcases during winter, as it meant a shorter distance to struggle through.
After entering the grand lobby, the friendly staff attended our check-in warmly. For kiasu Singaporeans’ info, one could get free coffee from the coffee machine at the lobby. However, when we checked out at 10am the next day, it was not in operation. So I guess it all comes down to luck. There were also free heat packs at the reception, and a huge cuddly teddy bear for the insta.
Accommodation Overview
Room Number: 0622
RoomType: 2 Twin/Single Beds
Number of Nights: 1
Bedroom
We had a standard twin bedroom like that in Sapporo’s Holiday Inn, but the room was more spacious. There was a settee by the window, which offered a view of the train station and the cityscape. It was where I sat to have my morning coffee the next day 🙂
They had an open concept wardrobe, with more than enough space to hang our clothes. There was even a deodorant spray for clothes! In fact, it was impressive how much amenities they could pack in that space. Other than the pantry and mini-bar, there was also the in-room safe, shoe horn and shoe brush.
Like the other Japanese hotels that I had stayed in, there were also pyjamas and bedroom slippers provided. The beds were also clean and good enough to recharge for the next day.
Bathroom
The bathroom was fitted out with standard Japanese amenities, with additional touches to make it better. For one, the toilet came with a bidet that could “oscillate”. Now I leave that to your imagination how enjoyable this feature was. The downside, though, was that the toilet seat was not heated. I suppose we just can’t have the best of both worlds.
They had a bathtub and shower combo, a standard forJapanese hotels. But the bathroom was more spacious and I could shower without bending over as the ceiling was also higher. Shampoo / conditioner / shower gel was provided, though the small 10ml bottles they came in were hard to handle; it was tough to get them out, and they were barely sufficient for a night’s stay.
Verdict
Overall, the hotel was great for a night’s stay. The only downside was its central heating system, so there was no way to stop the searing hot air from swarming into the room throughout the night. Yes, I was sweating on a cold winter’s night! The window could be opened ever so slightly for circulation. Unfortunately, that proved insufficient.
However, the hotel was well located and well equipped. In fact, it looked like it was newly renovated, so I was shocked to learn it had changed hands half a year after I stayed there. That being said, they might not have changed the interior much, since everything was so new. Therefore, the current Premier Hotel – Cabin President – Hakodate should be as good as its former Four Points Hakodate self.
Premier Hotel – Cabin President – Hakodate (formerly Four Points Hakodate)
14-10 Wakamatsu-Cho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0063, Japan
https://cabin.premierhotel-group.com/hakodate/
+81138220111
Preparation for A Trip to Hakodate
Hakodate, despite its small size, is still a very modern Japanese city. The hotels would be well stocked with toiletries and clean towels, so one only needed to bring personal toiletries along. If not, convenient stores are abound for last minute shopping of stuff that you forgot to bring along. The stores also accept major credit cards and even mobile payment like Google Pay / Apple Pay / Samsung Pay, so the cash could be left aside for emergencies or for paying for public transportation.
That being said, I thought that one would need to bring shoes with good grips when going up to Mt Hakodate Observatory in winter. The pedestrian walks, which are all on slopes, would be slippery from the ice and snow. Therefore, snow boots with high friction or putting on snow grips for your shoes would be essential. Additionally, if you intend to camp out at the outdoor observation deck for at least an hour like we did, then you should also pile on the layers and bring along some heat packs (which most hotels would offer for free at their reception), so that you could enjoy the sunset.
The Hakodate tram is a unique experience in itself, so one should be prepared for it. Suica cards are accepted, so remember to activate (for those who hadn’t returned to Japan for a few years) the card and top up with stored value at the train station.
Parting Words
Before this trip, I had thought Hakodate was a smaller version of Sapporo – winter city. Hakodate turned out to be smaller. And more touristy. In fact, it was a sleepy town with stunning views to boast. In hindsight, I had made a wise choice to stay only for one night at Hakodate.
Tourist spots like the Mt Hakodate Observatory and Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse could be covered in an afternoon. Of course, I had given Yunokawa onsen village and Goryōkaku a miss. But I found a good replacement in Tennen Onsen Hakodate Omori Noyu. Goryōkaku is “another park”, which might offer better views in the warmer months.
That being said, I also managed to savour its famous Shio ramen and pastry snaffles in that short amount of time. I wouldn’t mind returning to Hakodate again, but I wouldn’t come back just to visit it.
Therefore, one should definitely plan to stay in Hakodate if you’re visiting Hokkaido or northern Japan like we did. A short overnight stay would be enough to cover the key tourist spots within the city.
If you liked this post, do check out my review on ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino. With its clean rooms and convenient location, I thought it was great accommodation for exploring Sapporo, Hokkaido.
For those of you staying for a longer time at Hokkaido, follow my adventure to the northernmost point of Japan – Cape Soya. The day trip up north will be worthwhile!
Till then, stay wanderlust!
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 4a, and edited with Google Photos.
