My family visited central Japan last winter and we had already spent 3 nights at Takayama. We took the intercity coach to Kyoto, where we spent another 5 days in the ancient Japanese city.
On this day, we ventured out to the western part of Kyoto where the Arashiyama mountain ranges were. We took the Sagano sightseeing train and explored the area in and around Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. After having a late lunch, we returned to our hotel, where I went to visit To-ji near Kyoto Station. Read on for more on what we did exploring west of Kyoto in a day!
Taking Sagano Romantic Train through the mountains
Kyoto is located in a river basin, nestled amongst the mountains. Back in the good old days, folks traversed along the Katsura River that cuts through the hills to reach Kameoka. Today, the Japanese built a railway to connect the 2 regions and got a sightseeing train to ply the route.
The railway follows the path of a river valley, with steep mountain slopes – sometimes gorges – flanking the sides. In autumn, the slopes turn into fiery shades of fall colours that make a striking contrast with the soft flowing river.
We arrived early and hung out at a food hall beside the station. The train departs for Torokko Kameoka station every hour, and we were taking the 3rd train out. However, the crowd was sparse and only 1 food stall was open. There were also vending machines for those who prefer just something light.
Embarking on the Ride
The crowd gathered at the platform entrance. Not before long, the train pulled into the station and we were let through. As we had purchased the tickets on Klook, we used digital tickets which expedited the onboarding process.
The seats were allocated by the system during booking (we could see the allocated seats before payment). They were set out in a 2-2 layout. For the Torokko Kameoka bound trip, the seats on the right (A and B) were ideal, as the train travels mainly on the left side of the river bank. The converse is true from the return trip to Kyoto.
The windows of the sightseeing train could be opened by sliding them up and down. Most of the time, we left the windows open so that we could take in the sights and sounds of the natural sights during our ride. And since we were there during winter, we had to ensure that we piled on the layers (and prepared heat packs).
The trip through the breathtaking natural sights took about half an hour. We crossed streams, went through tunnels and traversed the hillside. We alighted at Torokko Kameoka station, which was right in the middle of an expansive padi field. After waving goodbye to the train which took another train load of passengers back to Kyoto, we began our 30 minute stroll to Umahori. Over there, we took the usual JR train back to Saga-Arashimaya station.
A sole country path connected the two train stations. In between, we were treated to the sights of the vast paddy fields set against a clear blue sky. Despite being winter, the wind was soft. Coupled with the crisp air, the stroll between Torroko Kameoka and Umahori stations was very enjoyable!
Getting to Sagano Romantic Train
The starting point of the Sagano Romantic Train is Saga Torokko station (if you are taking the train from Kyoto to Kameoka) is right beside the Saga-Arashiyama JR station. You have to exit the the JR station to reach the Saga Torokko station. This is important, as there is a tram line and another train line serving the area, with “Arashiyama” as their station names. They sound more legit than Saga-Arashiyama, but yup, the others are more than 5 – 20 minutes’ walk to Saga Torokko station.
With a food hall and plenty of vending machines, it won’t hurt to arrive early. Singaporeans can also purchase the tickets from Klook. The tickets are on sale 2 months in advance, and they sold out pretty fast. Adult’s tickets go for JPY880 (USD6) while kids’ prices start from JPY440 (USD3).
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
Back in Kyoto, we began our stroll to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. It had been 4 years since I last visited Kyoto, and I had visited the bamboo forest too. Prior to this trip, there were plenty of online comments about how crowded the place had become. However, I found it just like the last time I had visited – crowded, but not crowd-crush crowded.
This time around I was at the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in winter. Therefore, despite us visiting it in the afternoon, it was nowhere as hot as when I last visited in summer. The magic of first-time visits also seemed to hit me in the bamboo forest. Somehow, the bamboo wasn’t as green and the shades not as alluring.
As a park, Arashiyama Bamboo Forest has multiple points of entry, but most people access it via the main entrance, as it is nearest the train station and the other sights in the area like the Togetsukyō Bridge. While there are rickshaw services, they merely brought visitors around the park. Therefore, do be prepared for quite a walk, be it reaching the bamboo forest, exploring it, or leaving the place!
Starting from Saga-Arashiyama (where we arrived after taking the train back from Unahori), there was a huge sign providing directions to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Unless you are very early, you can simply follow the trail of people walking away from the station. 90% of the time, they’re heading towards the bamboo forest!
Admiring the beauty of Togetsukyō Bridge 渡月橋
After snapping the obligatory social media photos, we strolled down the road to the Togetsukyō Bridge 渡月橋, which I had missed out in the last visit. The wooden bridge spanned over a part of the Katsura River that flowed through the Arashiyama mountains, then onwards to the Kyoto’s centre. Togetsukyō – literally meaning “moon crossing” – was said to arise from tale involving the Kamakura period Emperor Kameyama, who had thought the moon looked like it was crossing the bridge. Well, he might have had a little too much.
The bridge is more known for appearing in countless Japanese period dramas, due to its iconic wooden structure that blended perfectly into nature. Many touristy shops lined the river bank near the bridge. However, the far side was much quieter, and offered a reprieve from the bustling tourist activities. In fact, there was a park – fairly empty – that was great for one to just relax and admire the mountainous beauty of the area. If I had known, I would have prepared myself for a picnic at the Arashiyama Park Nakanoshima Area.
Comfort Food at Togakushi 戸隠
It was over at the south end of the Togetsukyō Bridge that we found a casual Japanese dining place for our late lunch. At the fringe of the Arashiyama Park, Togakushi 戸隠 offered delights like soba and karaage. By then, we had walked aplenty, ravished, and were game for some comfort food!
Togakushi 戸隠
Saganakanoshimacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8383, Japan
+81758716842
To-ji Temple 東寺 – A quiet Dame At Dusk
Kyoto was inspired by Chang’an and Luoyang cities (now Xi’an and Luoyang, respectively), which was reflected in its grid-like design. Together with the now-gone Saiji (West Temple), To-ji (East Temple) and Saiji flanked the Rajomon Gate, which was the city gate of ancient Kyoto. East of Rajomon Gate, the city was designed in the likes of Luoyang, one of the twin capital cities in the Chinese Tang dynasty. The western part of ancient Kyoto took after the western Chinese capital. Today, To-ji is the only remaining landmark that still stood in its full glory.
Unfortunately, by the time we returned from west Kyoto, it was already dusk and the temple was closed for the day. I could only admire its architectural beauty from the outside, against the setting sun. Without the bustling tourists, the ancient building felt more imposing. The lack of lighting also made it feel as though I was seeing the temple like what the Japanese of the bygone era saw.
For those who are luckier than me to visit To-ji Temple during its opening hours, entry for adults is at JPY800 (USD6).
To-ji Temple 東寺
1 Kujocho, Minami Ward, Kyoto, 601-8473, Japan
https://toji.or.jp/en/
Hanano Yu 壬生温泉 はなの湯
After almost 4 hours of walking in the Arashiyama region, I really wanted to go relax and soothe my aching muscles. I grabbed a cab up north to Hanano Yu, which was a sprawling public bath complete with spa facilities like massage and food. Over there, I had my dinner – Chicken Katsu Don and Gyoza – to round off an active day around Kyoto.
At JPY1,620 (USD12), having a soak at Hanano Yu after a day of walking was really a joy!
Hanano Yu 壬生温泉 はなの湯
15-3 Mibumatsubaracho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8823, Japan
http://hanano-yu.jp/
Parting Words
Kyoto is very popular with Singaporeans. Most of the places I visited would likely also be blogged to death. However, Kyoto offers different experiences to everyone during various times of the year.
This time around, we explored Arashiyama region west of Kyoto. Other than visiting the insta-famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, we also took the Sagano Romantic Train through the mountains to neighboring Kameoka.
Returning from Arashiyama, I also checked out Toji Temple and saw the quaint side of the tourist destination. I then ended my day with a relaxing soak in the hot pools at Hanano Yu public bath. It was a mix of touristy and less travelled itinerary. Isn’t this how we should enjoy our holidays?
If you liked this post, do check out my review on Hotel Wood Takayama and ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino. With its clean rooms and convenient location, I thought the former was great accommodation for exploring Takayama. For those of you staying for a longer time at Hokkaido, follow my adventure to the northernmost point of Japan – Cape Soya. The day trip up north will be worthwhile!
Lastly, check out my travelogues to Hakodate, Aomori and Hirosaki, which was part of the winter trip to northeast Japan.
Till then, stay wanderlust!
All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 4a, and edited with Google Photos.