Ginzan Onsen – Hallstatt of the East

In winter of 2016, I made a special trip to Hallstatt, a rustic village nestled in the Alps. The mesmerising snow covered scenery was definitely worth the 8-hr commute. For those who would like to explore somewhere closer to home in Asia, then Ginzan Onsen in Japan would be the ultimate choice.

Ginzan Onsen is an onsen village deep in the Yamagata mountains. From its humble beginnings as a silver mining town, Ginzan Onsen captured the imagination of millions across the world when it was featured in the magical anime, Spirited Away. Since then, it has been the symbol for rustic towns set in the Japanese alps.

From Aomori to Ginzan Onsen

Our journey to Ginzan Onsen began from the idyllic city of Aomori. Like our Hallstatt trip, our journey took us through the Japanese alps for a good 5 hours. We switched trains at Shin Aomori, and travelled from the snow covered fields into the mountains of Yamagata. We were supposed to switch to the hotel transfer at Oishida. However, as their shuttle was timed to the JR Tsubasa train coming in from Tokyo, we had about an hour to explore the sleepy train station. 

The station roof seemed to be doubling up as a stadium style seating, where one could watch a performance in the car park. There was also a convenience store across the road. Since the prices in Ginzan Onsen was high, we also took the chance to buy some snacks and bottled water for hydration. We even had time left over to watch the workers shovel the snow off the roof in a methodical, albeit manual, way.

The hotel van took us through the fields surrounding Oishida (Oishida literally translates to “big stone fields”) and eventually into the mountains. After 45 minutes, we pulled into the parking garage that was stationed outside the iconic onsen village.

The hotel staff then led us through the village to their reception. Already, we could feel the bustle on the narrow streets lining the village’s creek. Many were taking videos and photos. Some were even dressed up in yukata to blend in with the ancient Japanese architecture.

Ginzan Onsen in the day – Hustle and Bustle

One could say the real magic happened once we crossed the stone bridge over the creek. The entire onsen town could be seen from this entry point. Tracing the lazy creek as it meandered through the line of historical buildings, one would to be spirited away into the age of fables. In late winter, the dark wooden houses from the 17th century stood in contrast against the  surrounding snow covered mountains.

Prior to arriving at Ginzan Onsen, many vloggers had said that most shops were closed during winter. That was not the case when we were there. In fact, it was late winter during my visit! There was a souvenir shop right near the village entrance and on the other end. Restaurants and cafes dotted the town, except many were part of the hotels. There were a few empty lots that were either building-in-progress or were plainly boarded up. Either way, the onsen town was as lively as it could get.

Ginzen Onsen at Night – All that Glitters

As night fell, so did the flutter of snow. The entire town was bathed in the warm glow of the gas lamps. It was as though we were thrown into a stage setting of a Japanese shogun era.

The windows of various ryokans also joined the stage. They dotted the facades lining the creek with varying degrees of warmth. Together with the wall carvings and murals, they conjured a theatrical display under the cover of the night.

The alternate ambience brought out the tourists who had been hiding indoors to warm themselves up after their afternoon photo taking sessions. Again, we seemed to be caught in a time warp as we weaved through the crowd.

As the night progressed, the crowd of day trippers started to disperse. What remained was a handful of us who had booked a night of stay at Ginzan Onsen. The sound of rushing creek water replaced the bewildered chatter.

Midnight Adventure into the Mountains

We decided to venture further into the village, to the mine that was closed in winter. That being said, the entrance to the mine was still open. With its slippery floor and melted snow water dripping from above,  I wouldn’t even want to get near the part of the mine that was cordoned off.

Instead, we crossed the Takimi Bridge to explore the depths of the town. After climbing up a few flight of stairs of an unnamed hotel, we were greeted by the steep slopes of the mountain. Over there, the entire village was beneath our feet.

Behind us was the dark entirety of the mountainside. We could see nothing except hear the rush of water down the hillside. The water covered the footpath, which made us question the need to venture further. After all, it was an uphill journey and the more we ventured forth, the trickier it would become for us to navigate the slippery downhill slope.

We stood in the darkness to enjoy the twilight deep mountain serenity for a while more before making our way back in town. By then, Ginzan Onsen was preparing to sleep. The only hectic activity was the chatter of the stream.

Waking Up to Fresh Snow at Ginzan Onsen

We woke up to a frantic flurry of falling snow. I had made it a point to wake up early, so that I could enjoy the fresh blanket of snow before it got destroyed by footprints – by those who stayed overnight, and by the daytrippers.

I guess the photos will do the speaking.

Points to Note When Visiting Ginzan Onsen

Pack light – the ground and the crowd isn’t exactly ideal for one to be lugging big or several suitcases around. Before setting off for Ginzan Onsen, we split our luggage for a 3D2N stay. Before setting off for Ginzan Onsen, we sent the bulk of our luggage straight to our next hotel in Yokohama.

Stay overnight – the majority of the visitors were on day trips. If you stay overnight, you become one of few who get the entire village to yourself. That was especially true for us, when we woke up to a fresh blanket of snow untouched by day trippers. We stayed at Kozankaku – read my review of it if you’re considering to stay overnight at Ginzan Onsen.

Parting Words

As a small town deep in the mountains, Ginzan Onsen exudes a unique charm of serenity. True, it reminds folks of Spirited Away, or for me, Hallstat. However, I found Ginzan Onsen beautiful in its own ways.

Unlike Hallstatt which boasted a splendid lake view, Ginzan Onsen is cozy. As a city kid, it was amazing to be transported to a fairytale like world in a matter of a few hours’ train ride. For those with limited budget, Ginzan Onsen is the ideal alternative to Hallstatt in Europe.

If you liked this post, do check out my review on  ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino. With its clean rooms and convenient location, I thought it was great accommodation for exploring Sapporo, Hokkaido.

For those of you staying for a longer time at Hokkaido, follow my adventure to the northernmost point of Japan – Cape Soya. The day trip up north will be worthwhile!

Lastly, check out my travelogues to Hakodate, Aomori and Hirosaki, which was part of the winter trip to northeast Japan.

Till then, stay wanderlust!

All photos and videos were taken using Google Pixel 4a, and edited with Google Photos.

How to Get to Ginzan Onsen

The nearest train station to Ginzan Onsen is Oishida, which is served by JR trains running from Tokyo and Sapporo.

From Tokyo

Tokyo Station > Oishida: Tsubasa Shinjo (Yamagata Shinkansen); 13,170 Yen

From Sapporo

The train ride from Sapporo involves several changes, as the rail network isn’t as developed as central Japan. The entire trip cost 25,240 Yen, but since the entire trip included JR Shinkansen, one can also buy the JR Pass, which could also be used for trips before and after Ginzan Onsen. For example, we used the pass to go from Sapporo to Hakodate, then to Aomori, where we also used it for day trips to Hirosaki and Asamushi. It also took us from Ginzan Onsen to Tokyo, where we continued using it for another day within Tokyo before it expired.

Sapporo > Hakodate: Limited Express Hakodate (Hokuto Line)
Shin Hakodate > Sendai: Hayabusa Tokyo (Hokkaido Shinkansen)
Sendai > Yamagata: Local Yamagata (Senzan Line)
Yamagata > Oishida: Local Shinjo (Yamagata Line)

From Oishida, there are shuttle buses that plies the station and Ginzan Onsen. Alternatively, if you are staying overnight, arrange for a pick up service by the hotel.

Extra: Totoro Cafe

For day trippers, or those like us who arrived from the north and had time to kill while waiting for the hotel pick up, do cross the road to visit the Totoro Cafe. Like its namesake, the cafe was decorated with Totoro memorabilia. However, those were not for sale. This was a great place to wait for the train, especially when in winter.